Whether it’s relaxing in the Mediterranean watching the sun set or adrenalin-pumping sports action you are after, Cyprus is one of the holiday destinations to visit.

Scuba diving, horse riding, mountain biking and tennis are among the activities available all-year round. And there will still be time to take in the scenery, ranging from dry plains near the coast to breathtaking views and lush green vineyards in the mountainous Troodos region.

Tucked away in the eastern Mediterranean, the island is a popular haunt for people from across Europe, with Brits and Russians heading the list of nations looking for a getaway in the sun.

And the island caters well for these people, with the western resort of Paphos lined with exclusive and luxurious hotels and shopping opportunities, while Larnaka in the east boasts a vibrant seafront and night life.

Peter Kitchen and Laura Nightingale on horseback, frankly, at the Santa Marina Retreat

But Cyprus is full of surprises if you are prepared to look off the beaten track, and it is here where the island and its friendly people truly come into their own.

A trip to Platres, high in the mountains for a special Cypriot coffee — I would recommend the unsweetened sketo — and mountain bike ride was followed by a visit to the neighbouring village of Koilani.

At first glance this appeared to be a small and quiet village, noticeable for its beautiful chapel and narrow streets. But it soon became apparent through the growing crowds that this was a special day for villagers — it was their annual grape and wine festival.

As well as getting the chance to sample local delicacies, including a hot grape sweet with the consistency of custard, we were also treated to morris dancing and traditional singing and music in a bustling town square.

The friendliness of the people, all too happy to accommodate us, was heartwarming and was a feature of our trips around the island.

The tiny village of Lefkara’s claim to fame is that Leonardo da Vinci is said to have bought an altar cloth and donated it to Milan Cathedral. Today women sit on stools outside their homes making lace and embroidery which they sell to passers-by.

But for those looking for more organised activities there are a surprising number of specialist centres dotted around the island which are attracting a growing band of visitors.

The Santa Marina Retreat in Pareklissia, between the towns of Larnaka and Limassol, is a family-run venture headed by Christian Elias Onoufriou. He took over the venture from his father, and runs stables of horses which have generated countless winners in some of the islands biggest races.

As well as a special track for training horses at speed, people of all riding standards including complete beginners get the chance to ride on horses and go for a walk through the countryside. It was the first time I had ever ridden on a horse and was an extremely relaxing experience.

A range of other sports are also on offer at the retreat, including archery, climbing and a golf driving range. The remains of an old copper mine – a throwback to the old industry of Cyprus going back centuries – are also on site with a host of tropical fish in the natural pool at the foot of the quarry.

The Aphrodite Hills Resort, which is a short drive from Paphos, has all the facilities of a village set on an exclusive sports resort. There are three golf courses and a tennis academy at the venue, and earlier this summer the resort played host to its first ever professional golf tournament.

A street in Cyprus

On our visit we had a 45-minute tennis session with senior pro Wyn Lewis based on an approach called Mental Matchplay. Rather than lessons on technique, Wyn taught us how to focus on the ball and our shots.

We finished the session playing rallies with headsets and earphones on, listening to calming music especially designed to help relax players and help them focus. A totally different approach to the game and one endorsed by Roger Federer.

For those seeking a slightly less high-tempo holiday there are still several ways to enjoy what Cyprus has to offer.

Scuba diving is a great way to see what wonders lie beneath the water’s surface, and we spent a morning at Kalliopi Dive College in Paphos.

A detailed tutorial from professional PADI instructors was held in a swimming pool to familiarise ourselves with our equipment and how to communicate under the water. Then it was to the beach for a breathtaking 35 minutes seeking out water snakes, sea urchins and star fish.

We were no more than three metres deep at any one time, but with breathing being so slow while under the water it is easy to lose track of time while gliding among the variety of fish and rocks, never knowing what you may find next.

One of the most memorable aspects of our five-day stay was the food on offer in Cyprus. George Ioakim, chief diving instructor at Kalliopi, took us to his house en route to a gorge trek in the Akamas region.

He showed us how he still cooks outdoors to traditional Cypriot methods, and picked fresh figs from trees in his garden for us to sample. It was a far cry from the local supermarket back home, and George was kind enough to give us each a fresh pomegranate to take away.

Cypriots often enjoy mezes, meals where courses are brought out one at a time and you sample as much or as little as you like.

While this “all you can eat” offer took some getting used to, some the treats we got to sample for the first time included octopus, goat, inkfish and squid during our week.

Cyprus can offer something for everyone – as with many places the more you put in the more you will get out. It’s an experience I will not forget in a hurry.

Factbox

• Peter Kitchen was a guest of Cyprus Tourism Organisation. He spent two nights at the four-star Sandy Beach Hotel in Larnaka and two nights at the five-star Annabelle in Paphos.
• Cyprus is a member of the EU and the local currency is the euro.
• The newly-renovated Sandy Beach Hotel lies right on the beach at Dhekelia in Larnaka, overlooking the Mediterranean. For more details visit www.sandybeachhotel.com.cy
• The Annabelle is one of three luxury five-star hotels on the west of the island that forms part of Thanos Hotels. For more details visit www.thanoshotels.com
• Aphrodite Hills resort is an award-winning five-star luxury sports, leisure and real estate resort just outside Paphos. Visit www.aphroditehills.com for more details.
• The Kalliopi Dive College offers scuba diving and snorkelling for all abilities. Visit www.kalliopitravel.com
• The family-run Santa Marina Retreat offers a range of sporting activities from horse riding to archery and climbing. Visit www.santamarinaretreat.com for more details.