Shropshire Star

The Fox, Chetwynd Aston

Reviewer's rating **** Christmas is coming, the journalist's getting fat, writes Andy Richardson. OK, so Christmas may still be half-a-year away, but memories of Christmas Past were brought into view during a visit to The Fox.

Published
Reviewer's rating ****

Christmas is coming, the journalist's getting fat,

writes Andy Richardson

. OK, so Christmas may still be half-a-year away, but memories of Christmas Past were brought into view during a visit to The Fox.

Each year, the assembled ranks of the Shropshire Star features team descend on a local hostelry to enjoy seasonal refreshment. Pity the poor chef, pity the poor waitress; imagine having to cater to a room full of food critics.

Last year, we decamped to The Fox, at Chetwynd Aston, and the team was unanimous in its praise of the east Shropshire venue. Good honest food, unfussy service, a menu placing an emphasis on fresh, local and seasonal ingredients - what's not to like.

But, you may say, it's all well and good when booking a table for 12 under the name: Local Restaurant Critics. The chef's bound to make sure he doesn't book a day off and the maitre d will polish his shoes to a mirror gloss. What about the rest of the year? Are standards upheld or corners cut? I slipped off to The Fox to find out.

The Fox is a delightful big Edwardian pub with plenty of nooks and crannies. It's off the beaten track, on the outskirts of Newport, and repeatedly features in the Good Pub Guide, AA Pub Guide, Good Beer Guide, Michelin Guide and others.

Sturdy wooden tables, comfortable chairs and a bar selling great beers and a selection of wines and whiskies make up the heart of The Fox's dining room. However, I was dining with a friend I'd not seen in a decade so we snook in to catch up on ten year's worth of chat. My friend hadn't dined at The Fox before, so her impression was instructive. She purred her approval at the surrounds and muttered encouraging words about the venue.

I also marvelled at the flexibility of the space. With its central bar, rather like the Boston bar Cheers, and with a mix of dining, drinking and chatting areas, it was suited to all tastes.

We had time for two courses, so opted for a main and dessert. My friend went for the pan-fried chicken breast with risotto, which won her unqualified support. The chicken, she declared, was moist, juicy and well-seasoned; the risotto rice was still al dente and the presentation was good.

My tandoori cod loin with a lemon and coriander pilau rice and cucumber raita was similarly impressive. The cod was nicely translucent, its oleaginous flakes breaking away with ease. Some skill had gone into the cooking. The concept of the dish worked well, with the accompanying rice and raita adding a little pizzazz.

Desserts followed. My friend opted for the pear tart tatin with cinnamon ice-cream. It was good, not excellent - I write as a man who makes a mean pear tart tatin - and the chef missed a trick by failing to chill the plate. Within minutes, the ice-cream had melted.

My bread and butter pudding with apricot sauce and clotted cream, meanwhile, was an old favourite. It was better than average, without excelling: if you want a really good bread and butter pudding, head to the Shrewsbury Bakehouse, where proprietress Sheila Tuskan Sager works wonders with leftover croissants, cream and chocolate.

Our lunch was enjoyable, the food was well cooked and the venue conducive to plentiful banter. The service, however, surpassed all of that. Our waitress was a youthful lady with long, curly black hair who deserves a pay rise, or profit-sharing bonus. She was attentive and efficient, engaging and warm. Her deference to guests and skilled distribution of food and bonhomie was a credit to the venue.

The Fox is among Shropshire's better dining pubs and has found a winning formula. The pricing structure means diners can eat their fill without breaking the bank. The Fox's kitchen has the confidence to cook with the best ingredients available and change the menu from day to day. Its bar staff are bright and breezy, generous with their smiles and happy to help. Its waitresses, certainly on the day of my last visit, were faultless.

The Fox may not welcome a return visit from a group of food critics - in particularly if the scribe whose code name is Sexy Rexy is among them. However, given the quality, friendliness and value on offer, it may just have to find us all space.

ADDRESS

The Fox, Pave Lane, Chetwynd Aston, Newport, TF10 9LQ

www.brunningandprice.co.uk/fox

Tel: 01952 815940

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Mushroom and tarragon soup with crusty bread £4.50; Chargrilled asparagus, avocado and watercress salad with a spicy mango salsa £5.25

LITE BITES

Buttercross Farm black pudding, poached egg and bacon on a pikelet with grain mustard sauce £7.50; Omelette Arnold Bennett with tomato and rocket salad £7.75

DESSERTS

Warm chocolate nut brownie with chocolate fudge sauce and vanilla ice-cream £5.25

ATMOSPHERE

Cheery and lively in large rooms

SERVICE

Exceptional. Our waitress was five-starred

DISABLED FACILITIES

Good. An open-plan dining room design makes navigation straight forward.

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