Reviewer’s rating: *** It’s always nice to return to a good eaterie, especially if it has changed hands since you were last there, writes Cathy Stanworth. You want to find out what the new owners have to offer.

It was five years ago when myself and my partner Simon dined there, on a cold and dark December night. Then it had just been taken over by two ladies and was definitely more of a restaurant than a pub. Back then we had drinks in the bar before being shown into the candlelit main lounge/restaurant, and I remember good food at restaurant prices.

On our return, we had swapped the cold winter night for a warm summer evening, and although the place still looked the same from the outside, it had undergone  a definite change. It is now officially a pub, a favourite for the locals and a place which has its aim firmly placed on offering tasty, good value, traditional pub food.

Speaking to the owners later in the week – partners Jason Harmer and Deanna Kenyon – they told me how they’d both worked in the hospitality industry for 20 years, working for a large company. Two and a half years ago they bought The Corbet Arms as their first owned pub.

This time the small bar to the left was closed and so we walked through a door to the right into the now lounge/dining area. Everything was more relaxed, the lady serving behind the bar, who I’m now assuming was Deanna, was still wearing her riding gear.

The decor was much the same, and there was a big specials board on the wall. A couple in a window seat were happily tucking into absolutely massive plates of mixed grill, while around the corner of the room comfy sofas were placed invitingly for the locals to loll in. Simon and I were to discover that, although The Corbet Arms is off the beaten track, it’s well worth a drive out there to sample its food.

At the bar we ordered a large glass of Shiraz (£4) and a pint of Carling (£2.90) and, although we’d reserved a table and one had been set up for us, we were told we could sit where we liked, so I chose one in the corner. Later on more people came in for a drink and one group sat quietly enjoying a game of Uno.

Inside The Corbet Arms, Upton Magna

The main menu was simply printed on a white A4 sheet of paper but there was also the specials board to consider. There was plenty on offer to tempt the taste buds. For starters I chose smoked salmon (£5.95) and Simon went for brandy and herb pate (£4.95).

For mains, I went for a favourite dish of mine, lamb shank (£9.95). Simon’s choice – his usual – rump steak and chips (£12.95). We chatted away and before long our starters came, and also the first clue as to the good value on offer.

I had a big pile of sliced smoked salmon that came with three big chunky slices of farmhouse bread and butter, home-made tartare sauce and a slice of lemon. My fish was fresh and tasty, and there was so much of it that Simon had to help me finish it. Drizzled with lemon juice it was full of flavour and enjoyable.

Simon’s pate was nice, dark and crumbly and he again had big chunks of toasted bread. He enjoyed it, and when I tried a little bit of it, I agreed it was good, dark, rich and tasty – very satisfying. Both starters had a fresh salad garnish. Our plates were soon cleared and there wasn’t a massive delay before our main courses arrived.

Simon’s steak was big and tender. There was a bit of fat in it but he said you had to expect that from rump, but the majority of it was tender – again pink in the middle as a medium steak should be. He said it was tasty and he enjoyed it. With it came huge, golden chips – some of the chunkiest we’ve come across. And there were also massive, obviously homemade onion rings. These also got the thumbs up, as Simon says he hates the small, frozen type.

I got a decent lamb shank. It was perfectly cooked, with the meat slightly pink in the middle and falling off the bone. It came with a light sauce. Personally, I prefer my lamb shanks to have a more darkened, glazed finish, and to get more sauce and a slightly thicker one at that. However, there was absolutely nothing wrong with what had been put before me, it was just personal taste.

My vegetables were cooked al dente, being broccoli, cauliflower and carrots, which I enjoyed. I stole one or two of Simon’s chips – it just had to be done – and they were delicious.

We had of course noticed the puddings board. Simon knew he was in trouble once he’d seen treacle sponge pudding on it. Iwas trying to decide what to have when the lady serving us told me that the chef had just made an apple pie with caramel topping, and so that was me sorted. Both came with custard. Simon enjoyed his a lot. I found mine absolutely delicious – especially the topping, and the custard was good as well. We finished with coffee.

I hope it won’t be another five years before we return again.

ADDRESS
The Corbet Arms, Pelham Road, Upton Magna, Shrewsbury SY4 4TZ
Telephone: 01743 709616

MENU SAMPLE
STARTERS
Soup (£3.50); Button mushrooms in a garlic sauce (£4.50).

MAIN COURSES
Chicken with mushroom and tarragon sauce (£10.95); Homemade burger (£7.95).

DESSERTS
Glazed lemon tart (£3.95); Chocolate fudgecake (£3.95).

SERVICE
Excellent. Prompt and efficient. Quietly welcoming.

DISABLED FACILITIES
Access ramp available on request.