Reviewer’s rating: **** Bambers is back! It was run for more than 30 years by the much-missed Brian Tyler then by his widow Sybil, writes Rex M Key. It closed last year but re-opened a couple of weeks before my visit, under new management.

Comparisons are odious, suffice to say the old Bambers was a delight; the new Bambers is a delight – but different. It used to offer genteel, English dining. Now it has a French influence under the masterful cooking of chef proprietor Matt Poulton.

He is a Bridgnorth chap, having gone to school at the Endowed then embarked on a developing career which saw him work with the renowned John Burton Race at the Michelin-starred L’Ortolan restaurant in Berkshire. Matt later picked up awards in his own right and has now returned to his roots in Shropshire.

There is French blood in his family and Matt now offers food with a distinct French influence. He is ably assisted by John Gatlan, his chef assistant, who hails from Lithuania. But it is Matt’s hands-on approach which has injected vibrancy and imagination into the Bambers of today.

The atmosphere is uplifting, thanks in part to the striking red and black colour scheme, Toulouse Lautrec prints and, not least, the full house of about 20 chattering diners. Booking is obviously essential, especially at weekends.

We arrived about 8pm on a Friday night and the reception area was fully occupied. After a cheery greeting we were shown through to our table, which was nicely laid with fresh flowers and, reflecting a bistroinspired informality, a gingham check plastic tablecloth.

The menu could not be described as extensive but nevertheless offered quite a varied choice, although with only one suitable for vegetarians.

Inside Bambers, Bridgnorth

The waitress arrived with warmed, crusty, wholemeal bread and a pot of butter which we tucked into before ordering. The six starters included smoked chicken and leek tart and a charcuterie platter (for two sharing) which indicates the imaginative element included in the dishes. I spied the scallops pancetta (tiny pieces of belly pork), well fried and sprinkled around the scallops.

The mild flavoured pea shoots did not mask the subtle flavour of the gently seared Cornish scallops which were enjoyably polished off. Priced at £7.50 it was not a cheap starter, but much appreciated.

French onion soup may not sound exciting but Bambers’ take on it was definitely not mundane. Libby was presented with a brimming dish of thick, highly flavoured delight. The Gruyere added a superb smoothness and, Libby discovered after badgering the chef assistant, was given an added dimension by the inclusion of grainy mustard.

From the seven choices of mains I picked the beef bourguignon (£10) with spring onion mash and root vegetables. It came in a large bowl so there was little danger of losing any of the thick, dark, rich, mouthwateringly tasty gravy which smothered a generous portion of tender beef. It had been slow-cooked, expertly flavoured and seasoned and was a tribute to John’s talent. The onion mash was faultless, as were the roasted vegetables – carrots, parsnips and something else (I was too distracted by the beef to record to memory). For a tenner it was exceptional value.

The plate opposite also displayed a £10 bargain – the loin of pork with Dijon mustard and fondant potatoes which Libby said passed muster with flying colours. A huge cut of pork was fully enjoyed, although with the observation that it was on the dry side and the dish would have benefited from an extra spoonful of sauce.

The evening then developed into something resembling an episode of Master Chef – as the dessert menu came with an apology! The crème brulee had not set. John said he had got his timing wrong, as he was experimenting. DidImind? No, I said I would like to try it, and was glad I did. The top was perfectly caramelised, the vanilla custard tasted superb but, the consistency lacked body. It was still well worth it.

Also most enjoyable was Libby’s tart au citron. Unexpectedly, it came with a top, but tasted deliciously tarty. The slow-cooked lemon sauce was rich, smooth and piquant. A winner.

Finish off the wine, enjoy the coffee. Sublime. Welcome back, Bambers.

ADDRESS
Bambers,
65 St Mary’s Street,
Bridgnorth WV16 4DR.
Tel: 01746 767364

MENU SAMPLE STARTERS Smoked chicken and leek tart (£5.50); charcuiterie platter – for two sharing – (£9.50) MAIN COURSES Lemon sole, lemon and caper butter, new potatoes (£14); slow cooked shoulder of lamb, lyonnaise potatoes, cabbage (£18 – for two sharing) SIDES French fries with Dijon mayonnaise (£2); vegetables (£2) DESSERTS Rosemary chocolate pot (£4.50); cheese trolley (£6.50) ATMOSPHERE Relaxed and cheery without being strident SERVICE Prompt, efficient and friendly DISABLED FACILITIES High step up from the street, narrow corridor to the toilets, no specific facilities for the disabled