All decent chefs dream of running their own restaurant, writes Andy Richardson. Such ambition is indicative of a passion and desire that are necessary to survive in the dog-eat-dog world of hospitality.

Few ever make it, frustrated by a lack of finance, opportunity or simple ability.

Of those that do, even fewer survive, with many unable to balance the competing demands of commerce and culinary creativity.

Dean Banner, therefore, is in a success story. The former head chef of Ludlow’s Dinham House Hotel decided to go it alone after achieving high standards of recognition in one of Shropshire’s most prestigious hotels.

He opened a small bistro on a pedestrian thoroughfare between Ludlow Library and the town’s Bull Ring, offering high-quality-but fairly-priced food for a discerning clientele.

By day, Parkway operates as an ice cream parlour, coffee shop and tapas bar before reopening for evening service as a bistro offering sophisticated dishes to educated palates.

But – and here’s the rub – for all of Banner’s craft, that format has inevitable limitations.

Parkway is roughly the size of a postage stamp. Okay, I exaggerate. But it’s small, as restaurants go, the size of a large living room in a family home. It shoe-horns in about 12 customers, crow-barring them within hands reach of neighbouring tables.

Pseudo fine dining and bar-like ambience . . . it’s like oil and water.

Banner and his team have managed well since opening and, unlike some businesses in Ludlow, Parkway has thrived. The reason for that is plain, his food is extremely good and he has good business acumen, for instance, in offering small plates of tapas at prices that ensure a healthy profit.

I’ve eaten at Parkway twice before and, fortuitously, always managed to avoid being placed beside the diner from hell. It was, however, third time unlucky when I made my latest visit. The abiding memory of that will be the uncouth, unpalatable and garrulous lady to my left and her gurning, grinning, nodding-dog husband.

The food, sadly, was lost in a maelstrom of braggadocio, homosexual gossip, tales of low-rent holidays in sand, sea and sex destinations and stuff that it’s better not to repeat. By the end of the evening, I felt like I’d been to a house party on the wrong side of town, rather than to marvel at the culinary expertise of one of Shropshire’s better chefs.

A strong maitre d’, of course, would manage such a situation. She’d protect patrons from unwelcome intrusion and ensure a lighter tone in the dining room. However, so tightly-packed are the tables at Parkway that the environment – rather than the skill of the waiting staff – is the determining factor.

But back to the food . . . Parkway combines Banner’s penchant for all things Mediterranean by offering tapas as starters, followed by more conventional main courses and desserts. My wife and I ordered four small platters of tapas but, before they arrived, were presented with a small and complimentary cup of creamed cauliflower soup. It was a treat, with great depth of flavour and consistency, light seasoning and plenty of earthy flavour.

Service was slow throughout, without any inquiries as to whether we’d enjoyed our dinners or needed any drinks. The maitre d’ seemed to spend more time talking to her daughter from behind the main counter on a mobile phone, than attending to customers.

The tapas, when they eventually arrived, were fine, if not a little underwhelming. My wife enjoyed her garlic prawns while I got my protein fix from a  smorgasbord of Herefordshire snails, baby squid and frogs’ legs in a buttery almond sauce. All were a treat, though the portions were miniscule. There were three snails in one dish, two pairs of frogs’ legs in another and two tiny squid in the third. At a combined cost of just over £12, they offered canapé-style nourishment,
rather than hearty fayre.

Our main courses, however, gave Banner the chance to shine. My wife’s salmon was deliciously cooked with a vibrant, creamy sauce while my pheasant wrapped in bacon, served with a red wine and bay jus, was prepared with considerable skill. Accompanying sauté potatoes, roasted butternut squash, baby corn and plenty of green vegetables were welcome additions.

My wife enjoyed three refreshing scoops of ice cream for dessert while I enjoyed Banner’s raspberry and apple tart. The chef is an accomplished pastry practitioner who combines flavours and textures in compelling style. His presentation is always easy on the eye. The dish did not disappoint.

Sadly, by then, the floodgates had opened and every mouthful was greeted with an inexpert anecdote from our neighbouring diners. Lewd banter is fine in a pub, but in a restaurant offering food that’s somewhere between 1AA and 2AA rosettes, it’s painful.

Banner has proved he has the skill to go it alone andnow fills an important niche in Ludlow’s culinary scene–below the other-worldly charms of Mr Underhills and the dazzling innovation of La Becasse – but, in cooking terms alone, above pretty much all else.

However, he misses a trick by not ensuring a more congenial restaurant.

In future, given the choice, I’ll spend a little more and eat food of a slightly lower standard at a different venue, than endure the lottery of his “posh cafe” dining room.

The last time I reviewed Parkway, I awarded it four out of five. This time, given the dining room debacle, it drops to a three. That’s no reflection on the food, rather, it’s a criticism of the format and wan service.

I marvel at Banner’s proficiency, lightness of touch and expert hand. But the dining room is a disaster waiting to happen.

Eating at Parkway is like admiring a Rembrandt in the WC.

ADDRESS
Parkway, Parkway, off Corve Street, Ludlow SY8 2PG
Tel: 01584 873130.

MENU SAMPLE
STARTERS
Pork meatballs in garlic and coconut curry (£3.95); Giant butter beans in fresh basil (£3.95)

MAIN COURSES
Sirloin steak with cognac and rainbow peppercorn sauce (£17.95); Chicken breast filled with spinach and oak-smoked cheddar (£14. 95)

DESSERTS
Italian ice cream and sorbet (£5.95 for three scoops); Apple and raspberry tart with real vanilla ice cream (£5.95)

ATMOSPHERE
Like the Titanic. Evenings start off with great expectation but have a tendency to lurch towards the ice

SERVICE
In stark contrast to the exquisite food, service is a real weakness

DISABLED FACILITIES
Poor access. The toilet is located upstairs, using stairs is necessary