Reviewer’s rating: *** It was back in the summer that I first planned to go to the Plume of Feathers at Harley Bank, near Much Wenlock, to do a food review, writes Sharon Walters.

I had last been there some years before when Jake King, one-time manager of Telford and Shrewsbury Town, owned it. Not bad as I recall – the food, that is!

It had changed hands some times and then earlier this year underwent a refurbishment with the latest owners. So time to return, I thought.

Oh dear, a jinx. Two days before I was due to go they had a fire and had to close. I kept meaning to go when they re-opened but time slipped away – until last weekend when needing Sunday lunch on the way back home from a trip, the route took me almost past the door and so I tipped up.

They serve food all day, knowledge stored away as I often don’t want to eat until late afternoon on Sundays, and there is an extensive menu. There is no set lunch but after 4pm there is a Sunday supper menu offering two courses for £10.95. Limited but good choice and another snippet stored away for the future.

But, back to lunch. Choosing was difficult as there were so many things to tempt both of us. Eventually I had the crispy shredded duck on warm noodle salad with oriental dressing (£5.50) and Neil had home-made chicken liver patŽ with granary toast and sun-dried tomato chutney (£5.25).

We were also very greedy (big mistake!) and had a side of freshly baked herb loaf (£2.50). Not just a few slices but a whole warm loaf arrived.

My starter was excellent. Plenty of duck and noodles on a substantial bed of mixed leaf salad including baby beetroot leaves. I could have done with a little more of the piquant sauce but that’s a personal thing.

Neil’s pate was smooth and tasty with generous slices of granary toast (we really didn’t need that loaf) and a mouth-watering chutney which I couldn’t resist dipping said bread into.

I next had roast rib of Shropshire beef with Yorkshire pudding and roast potatoes (£8.95). Unusually for a roast I was asked if I preferred it more pink than well done – excellent I thought choosing the pink side.

I think rib of beef is much underrated by most home cooks and it shouldn’t be. It may appear a little fatty but it is juicy and succulent when cooked slowly and is equally tasty when cold. I had a mountain of it on my plate and had to leave some, unfortunately.

The roasties were crispy on the outside and fluffy inside and the dish of vegetables were good with roasted carrot and parsnip and broccoli.

Now for my main gripe, the Yorkshire pudding was disappointing. I know it is difficult to do it for the masses but this was not good enough when served alongside such glorious beef.

Neil had the home-made burger topped with bacon and cheese with coleslaw and hand-cut chips (£9.50). Pricey you think but not so for the size of it.

On to the side plate immediately went the bun the burger arrived in. “I simply can’t manage that after the starter and with the rest of what’s on the plate,” said Neil.

And on his plate were huge hand-cut chips, a pile of coleslaw and a lovely salad. Alongside a burger the size of a small ball with bacon and cheese on the top and I could see why the bun was rejected.

The burger was moist, as well as plentiful, and well-seasoned. And as a fan of coleslaw, Neil said it was a hit as were the chips and salad.

Pudding? No way!

ADDRESS
Plume of Feathers, Harley, near Much Wenlock
Tel: 01952 727360

MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Freshly prepared cream of vegetable soup, served with a herb loaf (£4.75); Home-made haddock and prawn fishcake with salad and salsa (£5.25)

Main courses
14oz rump steak (£11.95); Beef stroganoff (£12.50)

Desserts
Home-made spotted dick with warm custard (£4.75); Home-made sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce (£4.75)

ATMOSPHERE
Quiet when we went in but it soon filled up with drinkers in the bar and diners.

SERVICE
Warm welcome and good service.

DISABLED FACILITIES
No disabled access for wheelchairs