Reviewer’s rating ****

After the office received an email from a reader praising “the great food” at The Oaks at Redhill, it wasn’t long before I was reaching for the phone to book that classic table for two, writes Cathy Stanworth.

She told us how she and her husband, his brother and his wife had found the food “fantastic” and the atmosphere and service “superb”. She told us how it was a family-run place and urged us to go and try it out. So we did.

Afterwards I was to find out that Robert and Jill Moore had owned and run the place for 20 years. It was built in the 1920s, and had previously been a club before they bought it to renovate. These days the larger-than-it-looks hotel has its own bar and restaurant as well as en suite accommodation.

Visiting a couple of weeks ago on a Friday night, we had unfortunately chosen a very quiet evening, with only two tables of diners eating in The Granville Restaurant, including myself and partner Simon.

I thought it was a shame the place was so quiet on a traditionally busy evening when the food was so good.

Walking through the door into the Granville Bar we found it to be quite small and traditionally decorated with a bar in the corner with a bell on it.

Although the bell immediately reminded me of Fawlty Towers’ reception desk, we were not destined to get a manic Basil-Fawlty-type hotelier jumping up from behind the bar in response to a “ding”, shouting “Yes!”, but instead warm and welcoming members of staff.

We chose to sit in a cosy corner by the fire before ordering a glass of red wine and a whisky and ginger ale while we looked at the menu (both fine).

There was also a specials board. It was a very comprehensive menu, that looked good value for money.

The Oaks also does a very competitive Sunday lunch plus children’s menu, bar snacks and function menu and will be running its Christmas menu from November 30 to December 24.

For starters, I ordered prawn cocktail with brown bread and butter (£4.75), while Simon chose Cajun-spiced prawn and pepper Wrap with fresh lime and sour cream (£4.75).

Mains were destined to be off the specials board, being roasted Welsh lamb chump steak with rosemary and a red wine sauce for me (£11.95), and an 8oz sirloin steak for Simon (£10).

All meals came with a choice of fresh seasonal vegetables or side salad, peas and new potatoes, chips, jacket potatoes mashed potatoes or boiled rice. In other words – whatever you wanted.

A smiling member of staff, I was later to discover it was Robert and Jill’s son, then showed us through to the restaurant, at the same time taking our drinks through for us.

The restaurant was very clean and tidy, with a selection of country, pop and Sixties music piped into the room. Our starters soon arrived.

I was delighted with my prawn cocktail. It had plenty of fresh, plump and tasty prawns in enough delicately flavoured seafood sauce.

It was dressed with a very fresh salad of tomato, cress and lettuce with a few slices of fresh bread and butter. It was really good.

Simon’s starter was quite generous and soon disappeared. He said it was very tasty.

Our main courses also did not disappoint. On warm plates (tick) I looked down on a nicely sliced lamb dish, which smelt deliciously of rosemary, surrounded by a delicate red wine sauce.

The meat was roasted to perfection, tender on the inside but ever so slightly crisply on the outside.

Simon had a lovely looking steak put before him.

Dishes of hot golden brown chips and broccoli, carrots and mange tout soon followed. The vegetables were well cooked, although not overcooked.

They weren’t crispy, just that little bit softer. They were very fresh and enjoyable. My lamb was delicious and a request for some mint sauce produced some of the proper home-made stuff.

Simon’s steak was good and tasty. It was a perfectly cooked medium steak.

Now, in order to do the place justice, we were just going to have to force a pudding and, after Simon noticed treacle pudding (£4.25) on the menu, I knew this was a foregone conclusion. After being told rhubard crumble (£4.25) wasn’t available, I was soon consoled with the offer of an apple version.

Both came hot, there were lots of it and they were lovely.

The perfect comfort food.

I was glad that mine wasn’t over sweetened and that the crumble topping was light.

It was perfectly complemented by a pleasing custard. Simon was pleased to get proper pouring cream with his tasty pudding.

A satisfying latte (£1.70) followed before we enjoyed our final drinks back in the bar.

Thanks go to the reader who recommended The Oaks.

By Cathy Stanworth

MENU SAMPLE

Starters – Garlic & Herb Bread Slices (£2.75); Potted Garlic Mushrooms (£4.50)

Main courses – Linguine Carbonara (£10.95); Fresh Salmon Steak with Prawn and Lemon Butter (£11.25)

Sides – Grilled Tomato, Mushrooms & Onion Rings (£3); Peppercorn Sauce (£3)

Desserts – Homemade Cheesecake (£4.25); Baileys Ice Cream Sundae (£4.50)

ATMOSPHERE

Warm and friendly.

SERVICE

Absolutely faultless.

DISABLED FACILITIES

Ramp from car park down to flat entrance and disabled toilet.

Contact The Oaks, Redhill, Telford, on (01952) 620126.