There’s a pub on the outskirts of Wolverhampton called the Shoulder of Mutton which will forever hold a precious place in my heart.

It was here, many moons ago, that I shared my first celebratory pint of ale with schoolfriends after we’d collected our A-level results.

My wife recalls much the same kind of exam celebrations back in the day with her girlie pals at the Royal Victoria Hotel in the centre of Newport.

I still vividly remember the crazed party atmosphere that day at the Shoulder; the hysteria, relief and frenzied over-excitement. So I’d built a similar mental picture of what life must be like inside the Vic.

If my image of the place was right all those years ago, then times certainly have a-changed.

Because the atmosphere inside one of Newport’s most regal buildings these days is a far cry from a cut-price student watering hole.

The relatively new owners have invested heavily in giving it a stylish makeover, creating an almost colonial atmosphere, with a smattering of Asian influences.

On the back of the bar menu, the proprietors spell out their “ethos” for food.

It says: “We serve classic British dishes, updated and perfected to be better than ever. We believe in supporting local farmers, so all of our produce is sourced locally and seasonally, which also means you’ll get the best possible flavours no matter what time of year it is.”

Ah yes, the flavours. That’s probably the over-riding memory we took away from the place.

Dishes are bold, good value for money, and bursting with taste. You can choose to eat off the bar menu, or take a table in a simple yet smartly decorated restaurant, where a grand piano sits proudly as the stylish focal point and diners are offered a wider-ranging menu.

The hotel, which dates back to the early 19th century and got its name after a visit from the Princess Royal in 1832, was hardly jumping on this particular Wednesday evening.

One couple were sat quietly in the corner enjoying terribly civilised cappuccino and cup cakes, and a family foursome were groaning about what was, to be fair, rather inappropriately loud rock music blaring from the speakers which seemed at odds with the hotel’s new chilled-out image.

Opting for the bar menu, I started with seasonal soup and crusty bread (£3.95) which was a rich, hot and wholesome tomato with pepper and parsley. The bread may not have been the crustiest I’ve ever devoured, but it was fresh and filling.

My wife Rachel chose the smoked haddock and spring onion fish cakes with salad (£4.95), an enormous portion which was bursting with bold flavours.

For main, my bacon and cheese steak burger (£7.95) was another plate-filler including a rather crumbly burger with, again, very pronounced herby flavours, and to-die-for crispy handmade chips.

Rachel’s lemon and herb chicken with those same chips, and salad (£7.25) was, she felt, suffering from a slight citrus overload in comparison with some of the other flavours.

Swilled down with a large glass of pinot grigio and a pint of chilled ale (we could have had a bottle of wine for what we felt was a very reasonable £10), the bill came in at just over £30. Without doubt, good value for money.

For those, like us, who despise the smell of cigarette smoke, many a mouthwatering bar menu remained off limits to us until the latest change in the law.

These days, we take it for granted that we can dine anywhere, any time, in a smoke-free atmosphere. One minor gripe about the Vic is the way patrons are able to light up in the front doorway of the hotel, allowing their fumes to drift back lazily into the bar.

The Vic is trying hard to establish itself as a top dining option on the relatively sparse east Shropshire food scene and, if you’re passing Newport, it certainly merits a visit.

It also does Sunday lunch, and “fish and chip Fridays” from noon to 5pm, when the classic British dish with mushy peas is served up for less than a fiver.

Concluding as we began, on an exam results theme, the Vic gets a grade B. A comfortable pass. Unlike my schooldays, though, this is one exam I’d have no qualms about re-sitting.

By Carl Jones

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Avocado, stilton and tomato salad (£4.50); Chicken liver and smoked bacon pate, with toast (£4.50)

Main courses

Pork and apple sausages with bubble and squeak (£6.95); Ladymoor Farm Shropshire ham with egg and handcut chips (£7.25); Steak and ale pie (£6.95)

ATMOSPHERE

Relaxed, comfortable, but very quiet – even for a midweek evening

SERVICE

Helpful, efficient and friendly

DISABLED FACILITIES

A few small steps, but generally good

Contact: The Royal Victoria Hotel, St Mary’s Street, Newport. Tel (01952) 811546 or visit www.theroyalvictoriahotel.com