Star rating: *** Rex Key and his wife visit a new-look pub for an evening meal

It was more than 40 years ago when I first propped up the bar in the Swan with an undertaker or two, an auctioneer and gentleman’s outfitter – not forgetting the local librarian.

I could not resist returning when the pub reopened after a major makeover to see if it retained its convivial atmosphere and was a little bit disappointed. My old chums weren’t there, so no one to exchange grumps and irreverent chatter with.

But the Swan is still very much the same. It retains its long bar and several spacious seating areas, and has been improved by having a much-needed repaint and the addition of raised, semi-circular alcoves furnished with dark-brown leather-upholstered chairs and benches.

There’s new lighting too, and a large, flat-screen TV (if you can live with its irritating flicker).

The food was what I wanted to focus on, and there was a comprehensive and attractive choice. Apart from the specials there were five starters including a “Rustic Deli Board for Two” offering mature cheese, grilled chicken breast, farmhouse ham, homemade coleslaw and house chutney served with crusty bread. It sounds a meal in itself and cost £6.95, but I worried it would make a big dent in my capacity for the main course (and dessert) so chose instead the three mini crabcakes (£3.25).

This I thought would not fill me up too much but the chef was either generous or couldn’t count because I had an extra crabcake. No matter, they were excellent, with a crunchy texture and high on flavour. The chilli dip was just the right strength and I even ate the salad leaves because they are supposed to be good for you.

My wife, Libby, meanwhile was kept quiet by her chicken and chorizo skewer (just the one). Priced at a reasonable £3.50 it offered good chunks of chicken breast and chorizo sausage and a tangy, smoked tomato dressing. She was more than happy and worked her way up the skewer right to her fingertips. No complaint so far.

The Swan operates in a semi-streamlined way, so you order at the bar and pay up front, then the waiting-on service begins – a pragmatic (and economic) way to handle things.

Our plates were cleared and fairly soon the mains appeared. Mine was the Louisiana blackened chicken with house fries and peas (£6.95).

It was well prepared and presented with some thought and skill. The chicken was firm, fine for me but perhaps requiring too much of a bite for some people. It had been well-marinated in herbs and spices so offered a distinct flavour which worked well with the glazing of smokey barbecue sauce. The searing was done positively and enhanced by the melted Cheddar and grilled bacon. I had chips and peas with mine, but I could have had a jacket potato or house salad. It was a flavoursome meal – with attitude.

Libby ordered the spicy beef meatballs tagliatelli with arabbiatta sauce, served with parmesan and garlic ciabatta (£8.50). She is the cook in the family and is quite experimental in what she prepares and what she orders when dining out. This night she came away with reservations. Although quite edible, the pasta texture and binding was, she said diplomatically, not what she expected.

Instead of smooth, individual strands of tagliatelli there was a glutinous mass of pasta requiring  knife as well as forkwork to obtain convenient mouthfuls. In the general run of the evening it was a bit of a question mark, if not a black mark.

I was more content and sallied forth into dessert, choosing the caramel chocolate truffle (£3.50). It was pure pleasure. Libby was even more ecstatic with her limonello flute, which was like a liqueur lollipop (£4.25) – lots of tangy, citrus taste which made up for the disappointment of the pasta.

The full menu at the Swan runs to nearly five pages and covers most needs from sandwiches, filled jacket potatoes and homemade burgers to a couple of specific vegetarian meals. Salads, side orders, a curry selection and then the Sunday roasts. Something for just about every occasion.

The Swan has had mixed fortunes of late but, having been around in its present structure since 1650, it will probably last a few years more even if most of my old drinking pals seem to have shuffled off.

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Camembert wedges with red onion marmalade (£3.50); soup of the day with crusty bread (£2.50)

Main courses

Traditional fish and chips and mushy peas (£5.95); rump steak, tomato, mushrooms and onion rings (£8.95)

Desserts

Raspberry and chocolate roulade (£3.95); double chocolate cheesecake (£3.95)

ATMOSPHERE

Relaxed and restful, apart from the plasma screen

SERVICE

Efficient and friendly

DISABLED FACILITIES

Wheelchairs can gain access but there are stairs to the toilets

Contact

The Swan, High Street, Bridgnorth. Tel: 01746 766439