Reviewer’s rating ***

I have never thought of The Beacon in Wellington as a typical family pub.

Indeed, when I first suggested it as a place to eat, Claire’s first reaction was to recall some of her days spent ‘studying’ there with friends while at college.

Tut, tut, some might say.

But in all the years it has occupied a spot opposite the town’s railway station, I have never been tempted to enter.

The Beacon has all the hallmarks of a typical chain pub.

First of all, it is huge.

The building stretches back for what seems like forever and is the kind of place people could easily get lost in.

And then there are the shiny fittings – a long, wide bar, lots of big tables and low lighting.

None of this deterred Claire and I as we entered on a Friday afternoon, determined to enjoy a late lunch.

And for the first time, Louis joined us for something to eat in the meal, giving him a break from his usual diet of pureed apple.

To begin, Claire and I headed straight for the main courses.

I decided to try the steak pie, while Claire’s choice was the eight-ounce rump steak – well done, as ever.

To be honest, expectations about the steak pie were not high.

In the past, I’ve eaten some truly woeful examples in chain pubs, with one in particular standing out – it was little more than a dish full of awful meat with pastry on top.

Thankfully, The Beacon served up a superb example of how to get things right and hit the mark first time.

My pie was a full case of delicious crispy pastry that hid a true delight within.

The filling offered plenty of chunks of really thick steak, all of which was held together by a lovely dark gravy.

As I worked my way through the pastry, I realised those chunks of steak were surely deserving of a greater stage than a humble pie.

They were nothing like the typical steak pie filling, which is usually painfully stringy and bland.

So what of Claire’s rump steak?

Although she had asked for a well done steak, as usual, Claire didn’t expect her main course to be quite so dry.

The steak hadn’t shrivelled up or anything, but it wasn’t quite the size she expected it to be.

The accompanying chips made up the difference, but there was little avoiding the fact that this steak was a little bit of a let-down.

Naturally enough, both courses came with the usual lashings of chips, vegetables and all sorts of other trimmings.

Louis, meanwhile, was tucking into his chicken, mash and beans.

He can’t, of course, talk for himself – not yet, thankfully – but Claire and I both noticed the usual signs of approval.

The more food that landed on surrounding surfaces, the more he liked it.

Back in the world of grown-up food, it was time for desserts.

I chose the chocolate brownie dessert, while Claire went for her all-time favourite – vanilla cheesecake.

My brownie dessert was perhaps a little bit big after the steak pie which had grabbed my attention so early on.

But nevertheless, I was determined to plough on – as anyone would!

My dish contained really chunky chocolate brownie pieces, all of which were stuffed full of chocolate chips.

They were very, very tasty, but I suspect that next time, I will choose something a little less filling.

Claire’s choice of vanilla cheesecake offered everything that makes it number one in her list of desserts.

Crunchy base, of course, along with a wonderfully creamy topping that was flavoured with mild vanilla.

The final bill, with a couple of drinks included, was around the perfectly reasonable mark of £30.

And although I perhaps would not recommend it for a quiet night out, The Beacon offers everything a family could need for a break from the shopping.

By James Shaw

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Potato skins (£3.45)

Spicy chicken strips (£3.45)

Main courses

Baked lasagne (£5.75)

Mixed grill (£9.95)

Desserts

Boris Belt Buster (£4.95)

Chocolate fudge cake (£2.95)

ATMOSPHERE

Very relaxed, although it was a Friday afternoon and the bar would inevitably liven up later.

SERVICE

Efficient enough and few complaints – no lengthy wait for food to arrive.

DISABLED FACILITIES

There is access for wheelchairs.

The Beacon, 6-7 Market Square, Wellington TF1 1BP. Telephone (01952) 222417.