Inside Sebastian's , Oswestry

Reviewer’s rating: ***** What’s in a name? Well, obviously quite a bit, writes Neil Thomas.

Would you, for instance, eat at a new restaurant if it was named Wormwood Scrubs?

Indian cuisine, no matter how good, may struggle to find customers were the establishment to be called The Black Hole of Calcutta (The obvious apologies and disclaimers apply to anyone who runs highly successful restaurants with these names).

One of my favourite restaurants is a place with two Michelin stars in Cheltenham called Le Champignon Sauvage, which certainly sounds classier than its English translation of the wild/savage mushroom.

Onomatopoeia may not necessarily lure you to a dining experience but there’s every chance it could put you off one.

Names obviously work in a positive way, too, establishing a brand and operating as a powerful hook.

The name Sebastian, for instance, has a certain cache.

Think back to the acclaimed TV series of Brideshead Revisted. Anthony Andrews as the aristocratic Sebastian Flyte melted female hearts the nation over – a kind of “Darcy Firth” in a wet shirt equivalent for the 80s. Yes, teenagers, your mother swooned over a public school fop in flannels and boater who was given to weeping a lot and cuddling a teddy bear.

Still, the name Sebastian sounded pretty classy – it fitted the profile. Bert, Alf or Ron Flyte wouldn’t quite have worked.

Think of the rivalry between Olympic runners Sebastian Coe and Steve Ovett. The slightly haughty, classy Sebastian against the streetwise Steve with the common touch.

Sebastian is a name that suggests class and sits very comfortably over the door of one of Shropshire’s best restaurants.

Chef Mark Sebastian Fisher honed his art in Switzerland and France and is one of the most skilled chefs in the county. His elegant front-of-house wife Michelle Adrienne oversees flawless service.

The couple have run Sebastian’s in Oswestry’s Willow Street for many years. The restaurant business is as tough as they come and you don’t last as long as they have without having something considerable to offer.

My wife Vanessa and I have dined there quite a few times down the years and believe it to be one of the best eating out experiences in Shropshire and Mid Wales, its take on French food and wonderful service proving a terrific combination.

Inside it is all oak-panelling and flattering candlelight, the perfect place for a gentleman to impress a lady or, in these days of equality, a lady to impress a gentleman (so I’ll leave my wallet at home next time, shall I darling?).

It’s a great special occasion venue and Vanessa was certainly delighted we celebrated her birthday there. Now what kind of cheapskate “treats” his wife to a swish meal out at his company’s expense? Well, the sort who thinks a knowledgeable readership, which loves and knows about food, might like to hear about a top place to dine out on its collective doorstep.

Within moments of sinking into one of the comfortable sofas in one of two lounge areas, we were sipping refreshing pre-dinner gin and tonics and unwinding after another hectic day. It is a chance to scan the mouthwatering menu, in French because I guess it reads classier that way, but with English sub-titles.

We were then shown to our table for a perfect little appetiser of tomato and orange veloute, which certainly set the taste buds tingling for the delights to follow.

These were, for Vanessa, a starter of mushrooms in sauteed garlic, cream and Roquefort cheese; a main course of very tender, rare fillet of beef with a garlic and haricot bean puree and Madeira sauce, and a dessert of basil pannacotta with basil syrup and lime parfait.

My delights were salmon and herb ravioli with a Maine scallop on a bed of carrot spaghetti with cream and chive sauce, followed by lamb with a kebab of kidney and cherry tomatoes on a bed of spinach with a lamb jus. My dessert was chocolate and stem ginger tart with ginger wine ice cream.

Every course was superb in taste, texture and presentation.

The excellent coffee with homemade truffles and petit fours were, as ever, an enjoyable finale. Four courses cost £37-50 per person which may sound a little pricey but I feel represents great value for money.

I can’t ever recall a visit to Sebastian’s where I didn’t depart feeling better than I arrived. Its stimulating ambience leads to a real sense of occasion added to by excellent food and exemplary service.

It is one of the county’s great mood enhancing experiences.

MENU SAMPLE
Starters

Chicken, leeks and mushroom terrine, truffle mayonnaise and salad; Chicken and goat’s cheese ravioli with asparagus bouillon

Main courses

Roast cod fillet with aubergine and fish and red wine veloute; Beef, potato rosti, glarlic and haricot bean puree and Madeira sauce

Desserts

Shortbread and strawberries with creme fraiche and balsamic glaze; Chocolate brownie and lavender ice cream

ATMOSPHERE
Stimulating

SERVICE
First class

DISABLED FACILITIES
Tight space not easy to negotiate

ADDRESS
Sebastian’s, Willow Street, Oswestry
Tel: 01691 655444