Reviewer’s rating ****

Having been warned by my girlfriend that she needed a well-deserved treat, I decided a meal out was the perfect way to keep her happy and save me a job slaving over a hot stove.

So after much deliberating about where to rest our forks, or should I say chopsticks, Alison convinced me that Zenna oriental restaurant in Pontesbury, near Shrewsbury, was worth a try.

It was a Saturday night and I thought, rather foolishly, that it would be easy to waltz in and get a table for two in a restaurant out in the sticks.

With the credit crunch now turning into a full-blown recession, I thought I would have no problem sneaking a table. So I was most surprised to see the restaurant heaving with people, with no space for us.

The restaurant also doubles up as a takeaway and we were asked if we wanted to order, but seeing how popular it was just made me more intrigued to come again and enjoy it properly.

We did so the following night, this time having the good sense to book ahead. And it was a good job I did because on arrival I noticed most of the tables were reserved, and by the end of the evening all but one table was taken.

On first impression the restaurant looks nothing special, just a small village Chinese with a sort of “no frills” attitude to decor, but as soon as you start tasting the food you quickly realise why it’s such a little gem of a place.

Myself and Alison are huge fans of Chinese food and have eaten out at quite a few places, so Zenna had quite a lot to live up to.

Scouring the menu, I was pleased to see a nice range of starters and mains, all of which were quite reasonably priced.

I couldn’t resist the tempting barbecue spare ribs which were absolutely delicious and not at all greasy or overpowering.

Alison, meanwhile, chose the mixed h’orderves – a wonderful mixture of Chinese snacks including spring rolls, sesame prawn toast, samosa, a barbecue spare rib, crab claw and crispy seaweed – all for £3.50.

Despite not having the most extensive range of beers, the restaurant does have a good range of wine, some of which is supplied by Shrewsbury’s Tanners Wine Merchants.

But if we thought the starters were good then we were in for a real treat for the main courses.

All too often Chinese food can leave the impression that it’s been prepared hours earlier and just given a rehashing later, but that was simply not true of Zenna.

My choice of beef with green peppers and onion in black bean sauce tasted every bit as good as it sounds – the meat was tender and well cooked and the vegetables and sauce packed with the kind of flavour that can only come from something that has been freshly prepared.

Alison picked the good old classic of sweet-and-sour chicken, which was well presented and described as beautiful, and cooked in a Cantonese style.

One of the most impressive things about the restaurant was its sense of tradition, and looking across the room virtually everyone seemed to be using the chopsticks provided, although there was of course a knife and fork for those less adventurous.

The meals were served in separate portions with a small bowl and plate to mix your food and side orders, such as egg-fried rice and soft noodles, to your own desired taste.

The atmosphere inside the restaurant was so cosy and relaxed that it was refreshing not to feel rushed into eating your food. Given that the meals were served in traditional bowls, it meant you took the time to enjoy your food and two-and-a-half hours flew by without us even realising.

We were starting to feel very full after our mains and, despite a small number of desserts being available, we decided to end the evening with a liqueur coffee.

We both ordered the Coffee Royale which was brandy based and made with fresh double cream.

One of my only criticisms about the restaurant is its toilet facilities, which although perfectly clean and presentable, contain just one lavatory and a wash basin.

The restaurant is small enough to get away with it, but it was still slightly unusual.

The husband-and-wife team who have been running the restaurant for the past 10 years are popular characters who interact well with their customers and appear to have built up an enviable reputation for serving good food.

On this showing it is easy to see why.

By Russell Roberts

MENU SAMPLE:

Starters

Chicken & sweetcorn soup (£2)

BBQ spare ribs (£4)

Main courses

Thai curry – red or yellow (£5.70)

Sweet-and-sour chicken (£5.70)

Desserts

Fried bananas (£3)

Lychees (£2)

ATMOSPHERE

Cosy and relaxed

SERVICE

Efficient and friendly

DISABLED FACILITIES

Double doors at the front allow full access. No disabled toilet, but it is large enough to accommodate a wheelchair

Contact Zenna, Main Road, Pontesbury. Tel: 01743 792955.