Natural route in tranquil Lake District

Tuesday 24th March 2009, 12:11PM GMT.

View of 'the tops' from Southwaite GreenJohn Nash enjoys the glorious silence of the Lake District – and discovers a unique cottage development where nothing goes to waste.

On my first visit to Cumbria, I recall pulling over on a narrow winding lane to let an on-coming car pass and there, roughly chiselled into the rock face, were these words: “The Lake District. Dedicated to the Glory of God”.

The Southwaite Green cottagesClearly, whoever crafted the sentiment, believed that one the most picturesque locations in the UK, with its breathtaking mountains, picture-book lakes and valleys, was a worthy shrine to a divine craftsman.

Now, many visits later I have come to appreciate some of the mysterious splendour of this place, which has given me encounters with kind and colourful locals, elusive wild trout, shepherds rescuing Herdwick sheep on stormy “tops”, a timely meeting with a giant of man on Cat Bells . . . and only the finest of real ales.

The area has been a popular destination among British tourists for centuries and now attracts visitors from across the globe.

It has inspired poets – not least William Wordsworth – fell walkers like Alfred Wainwright, who brought his passion for The Lakes to millions, writers and artists like Beatrix Potter, and Victorian social revolutionary John Ruskin, who helped found the National Trust.

But the unique geological beauty and long-celebrated spiritual heritage of this National Park has also inspired others to invest their lives to preserve the ages-old “Cumbrian Way” with beliefs born more out of scientific evaluation than any “Damascus Road” conversion.

One such woman is Marna McMillin, an exceptionally successful accountant, who is now pioneering a new kind of holiday experience at Lorton, in what she describes as her “home-coming.”

With the help of local craftsmen, using local materials, she has successfully recreated “the farm buildings she knew as a child” growing up in Cumbria.

But her Southwaite Green project is not all what it seems. Four Visit Britain five-star rating self-catering homes masquerade beneath the development in 10 acres of ground, which host kingfishers, roe deer and a heron – sadly, an all too regular visitor to the trout pond.

The workmanship and design concepts are first class and the light flooding the accommodation magical, but there is something else which adds to the appeal of this retreat.

Each of Marna’s properties has heating drawn from latent, ambient temperatures found beneath the earth, her own simple recycling and a filtration system, so efficient that it takes foul waste and returns pristine water to the beck which feeds the River Cocker.

It is nothing short of incredible what has been achieved here by one woman’s vision to promote the “green” message in the most practical of ways.

Inside Buttermere CottageShe has proved that it is possible, without compromise, to have an eco-friendly holiday in lovely accommodation, without a single dippy hippy, teepee or dog-on-a-string in sight.

Southwaite Green, just a couple of miles outside Cockermouth, snuggles seamlessly into the surrounding countryside with a blanket of glorious silence on all sides. Each home has a comprehensively-equipped kitchen, complete with eco kettle, and the theme is continued with organic sheets and duvet covers, organic cotton towels and hand-made soaps.

Says Marna: “I just wanted to prove that eco-accommodation could be sustainable and viable and presented without compromises.

“These are five-star homes which look just like tasteful barn conversions, but a lot of research has gone into their design to create energy efficient accommodation.

“The development resembles the farms I knew as a child and are full of traditional Cumbrian craftsmanship.”

Approached by a long farm track, the former equine business site, with its own idyllic stream, is delightfully private with each comfortably furnished holiday home having its own patio area, kitchen to handle proper family self-catering and panoramic views.

My week’s break, hosted by Cumbrian Tourism, was an ideal opportunity for the eco-heating system to be put to the test. On my second day, Britain was paralysed by the heaviest snowfalls in 18 years. Temperatures across The Lakes dipped to -15C and TV and radio broadcasts were punctuated by “severe weather warnings.” Every room of the cottage remained warm.

I was amazed so much heat could penetrate the flagstone flooring. It was stunningly efficient.

Marna explained how “low grade heat” is extracted through some 600 meters of plastic piping buried in a field and the energy then boosted to useable temperatures by a heat pump. Energy is also harvested by solar heating panels and air pumps.

The woodburner, a great practical “toy” for all would-be boy scouts, was a great focal point to toast frozen feet.

The Lake DistrictUndoubtedly, the accommodation would be equally appealing in the summer months. . . and of course, the trout waters of the River Cocker, just a walk away, offer their own allure.

As a trout fisherman, the issues of global warming and subsequent changing life cycles of fly life, have long been an issue of concern with purists. So often, however, the shenanigans the less responsible “green” lobby have made the headlines and cheapened their cause.

Marna’s homes are a welcome addition of thoughtful, comfortable, comprehensive family accommodation – but the Southwaite Green experience adds another less definable dynamic.

Just like the dedication I saw in the rock, the experience is equally worthy of being carved into my memory and I would be charmed to engage once again the happy episode at Lorton.

Fact Box:

John’s Tips:

  • Southwaite Green has four cottages – Buttermere, Beckside, Skiddaw and Esther’s Barn.
  • Wheelchair access, shower and bathroom facilities are available at the ground-level Buttermere accommodation and there is a drop-off point right outside the door.


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