Reviewer’s rating ***** Catherine Roche is delighted at the beautifully presented meals cooked using local ingredients.

Although the credit crunch is biting and most folks are more likely to stay in with a take-away and a helping of the latest reality TV, my lovely boyfriend and I decided to venture out for a romantic meal for two.

After pressing my sister for ideas, we decided to plump for the historic Grade II listed Mytton and Mermaid Hotel, on the banks of the River Severn in Atcham.

When booking, we were told that the Saturday evening menu was a set price of three courses for £27.50 which changes weekly. Weekdays it’s the usual menu. After weighing up whether I could fit in three courses we agreed to go for it.

And we were jolly glad we did because, although I had cooked a three course banquet the night before, nothing could match the fine local food at the Mytton. It is excellent value and worth every penny.

There is a restaurant and bar area at the hotel, both warming and smartly decorated. Though next to each other, and I imagine the food is excellent in both, the quality of the restaurant food was outstanding.

Historic past

The hotel, which dates from the 18th century, has been tastefully decorated and captures the charms of its original coaching inn days.

The a la carte winter menu we were offered looked impeccably well thought out and for want of a better word was very “Shropshire”, with plenty of game and rich flavours.

Simon was stumped by the menu as I honestly think he would have liked to have it all. But having taught him the art of sharing, we chose our courses on the understanding we would taste each other’s to get the most out it.

So with that in mind I chose the pan fried breast of wood pigeon with soused vegetables, potato terrine and balsamic and puy lentil jus and he went for the pan fried spiced boudin of rabbit with broccoli puree, sweet and sour beetroot and crayfish and peashoot salad.

Before these arrived however we were treated to olives, pickles, popcorn and an espresso-sized pea and ham soup with hot bread roll.

All very proper

The waiters and waitresses (we were served by several attentive young people) recited the draft beers and wines and poured all drinks with one hand behind their backs, all very proper and pleasing.

Before long the starters arrived and the presentation, size and flavours of both were extremely well executed.

In the interests of me being able to eat three courses, Simon had the lion’s share. Both portions were a good but sensible size, bursting with colours and flavours.

The pigeon was tender and cooked perfectly and had a strong gamey flavour and its accompanying flavours matched well without overshadowing the meat.

Simon’s rabbit dish had a subtle sweetness with just a suggestion of other flavours to offset the main event.

Our only complaint, if you can call it that, while at the Mytton was that we had to wait a while between the starters and main course. Knowing that everything is cooked to order, and patrons are asked to be patient, neither of us minded.

For main course, Simon ordered loin of old spot pork, with sweet and sour red cabbage, dauphinoise potato cherry dumpling, carrot and star anise puree and red wine sauce and I went for pan fried fillet of sea bass with sauce basquaise, chorizo and butterbeans and watercress vinaigrette.

Carnival of flavours

Again, hats off to the chef Adrian Badland, who has been with the hotel for years and obviously honed his craft.

My meal was delicious and although the chorizo made it quite salty, it was a carnival of flavours. The fish was tender and fresh but I could see only watercress garnish and no vinaigrette. That may be my untrained eye.

Simon’s meal however was the nicest thing I have ever tasted. Pork can be tough and flavourless if not cooked perfectly, but this was juicy and the crackling was awesome.

The dauphinoise was neatly placed in a square and was possibly the best offering of this style of potato I have tried. There was a nice sweet aftertaste from the puree and sauce. I was jealous.

For his sweet, Simon had decided from the get-go to have the double chocolate cheesecake with espresso granite, pistachio cake and coffee bean syrup.

Just to have something different I had the assiette of apple, encompassing Cox’s apple strudel, calvados ice-cream and apple jelly with iced granny smith.

Home-made treats

The beauty with these desserts is, if you really didn’t like something with it (unlikely) you will love something else. The desserts were presented on grey granite tiles with each item shaped and displayed differently.

The calvados ice-cream was rich, smooth, creamy and clearly home-made but the strudel was a little too crispy for me. I would have preferred to see a little more depth to the pastry but others will undoubtedly prefer it to be light and crisp.

The cheesecake was also rich and the chocolate flavour lay in its base. A fan of pistachios, Simon particularly enjoyed the little round cakes.

We declined coffee of our choice and truffles but they were available within the menu.

The dining room was fairly empty when we arrived, but three hours later, it was full. The waiting staff never let us want for anything and with the background sound of jazz, we were full and happy when we left.

A great place to go for friends, couples and families to enjoy literally perfect local food. Simon, please take me again and the AA should think about affording it another star.

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Hash brown of wild mushroom, poached egg, baby spinach, Bramley apple compote and mustard butter sauce (£6.50); mosaic of game, warm quince jelly, prune puree and port wine vinaigrette (£6.50)

Main courses

Pheasant and foie gras Wellington with thyme mash, roasted shallots, braised salsify and red wine jus (£15.95); pan roasted rump of lamb with braised savoy cabbage, celeriac puree, borlotti beans, mint jelly, hazelnuts and port jus (£14.95)

Desserts

Roasted banana tart tatin with banana and walnut ice cream (£5.95): Sable breton with marinated figs, pistachio parfait and spiced ice-cream (£5.95)

ATMOSPHERE

Friendly and intimate

SERVICE

Faultless

Disabled facilities

Excellent

Contact

Mytton and Mermaid, Atcham, near Shrewsbury, SY5 6QG. Tel (01743) 761220