Reviewer’s rating: ****

Searching for a pub where food is served throughout the day used to be nice and simple.

There were always two very basic steps to choosing a location: think of a pub, then eat at said pub.

But not any more.

The downturn in trade, often blamed on the credit crunch, has seen many pubs close for good.

Indeed, that is what Claire and I experienced before we eventually stumbled upon the Bell and Bails in Telford.

Our first choice was the Wrekin View in Dawley Bank, but that option soon fell by the wayside when we noticed the recently-erected closed signs.

It took some persuading to try St Georges as a location – once a mecca for pubs, it has seen many close over recent years.

Or so we believed.

I had originally thought it an odd decision to close the Bell and Bails at the start of last year.

Lying next to the cricket club and in the heart of the community, it has always seemed to be the ideal eaterie.

So Claire and I were delighted to find it re-opened after a few months of renovation work. The revamp is, however, subtle in most places and has retained all those little essentials – a warm welcome and no shortage of chat.

But what of the food?

The menu offered a great deal of traditional pub fare, but that was a relief.

Neither of us wanted to grapple with anything more than basic offerings and that is what we got.

Bearing in mind the weather was freezing outside, we both went for the tomato and basil soup.

Accompanied by healthy servings of bread, the soup certainly warmed us up after our journey.

Like the rest of the menu, there were few pretensions.

The soup had a great, smooth flavour, with just the tiniest hint of spice to liven things up.

It was a superb way to start our meal.

But something was still missing – other customers.

The fact that the ‘open’ signs had been put up just a few weeks previously meant we were the only people dining.

Admittedly, it was just after 6pm on a Thursday evening, but it was a little concerning to see few others come through the doors.

The atmosphere suffered a little as a result, but that could be expected, especially if locals were unaware it had only just reopened.

For our main courses, we both followed with ‘pub grub’ tradition – I had the mixed grill and Claire tried the gammon.

Nothing too adventurous, but to repeat my point from earlier, we wanted little else.

My mixed grill was fantastic.

All the favourites were there – steak, lamb and gammon, along with some superb sausages that were “sourced locally”.

Unsurprisingly, the staff were giving little away about their secrets!

But it was also the little points that made my mixed grill a treat.

The vegetables, so often a forgotten partner of this dish, were cooked to perfection.

And the chips had a home-made feel that you only get with chips that are, well, made at home.

On the other side of the table, Claire was sending me equally positive messages.

The gammon was just the right size and had no trouble in satisfying her appetite – in fact, I am sure she left some behind.

Claire was also enthusiastic about the chips, which almost overtook the gammon as the highlight of her meal.

But what would the best part of our experience?

To be honest, the food was just part of the reason why we both want to return in the near future.

The warm welcome, clean bar and friendly staff also had a bearing on the night’s events.

As always, however, it all came down to money – and for a shade under £25, I am yet to find a better place to eat in that price range.

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Baked pear and brie (£3.85)

Warm goat’s cheese salad (£3.50)

Main courses

Corn fed chicken and pancetta (£7.95)

16oz t-bone steak (£12.75)

Desserts

Bread and butter pudding (£2.65)

Chocolate sponge (£2.65)

ATMOSPHERE

Very quiet, as there were few customers, although it was warm and inviting.

SERVICE

Friendly and with few faults.

DISABLED FACILITIES

There is access for wheelchairs via a rear door.

Contact

The Bell and Bails, Church Street, St Georges, Telford. Tel 01952 615144.