Reviewer’s rating ****

Cathy stanworth battles through the fog to a delightful pub

Driving out with friends to find The Bull And Dog during what must have been the foggiest evening of the year, all I could think was “Thank God for sat nav!”

Trying to see through the thick mist at the windscreen, scanning for signs of life ahead, myself and my other half Simon and friends Simon and Theresa joked that the computer-generated voice would no doubt say ‘You have arrived at your destination’ opposite a farmer’s field.

When it did just that, opposite a field and a junction, it suddenly wasn’t funny anymore. Yet, just a few yards further along we glimpsed the satisfying glow of lights streaming out through pub windows.

The former coaching inn’s huge old oak door opened to reveal a heavily-beamed interior, occupied by staff and a few locals standing possessively next to a warm and welcoming real fire.

The man behind the bar, whom I now know is the person who has recently taken over the lease, Max Baker, smiled a friendly welcome and took our drinks order before seeing us to our table.

As the Bull and Dog is a large pub and it was still bitterly cold outside, I preferred to keep my coat on for a short while, but it wasn’t long before we all warmed up.

The menu had a good choice of restaurant-style dishes – about as far away as you could get from old-fashioned pub grub ‘chicken in a basket’. Things were looking good.

Speaking to Max the following week he explained how the menu evolved daily as the chef created dishes using fish, meat or game that was locally available that day.

Max had worked as a conference and banqueting manager at the (five star) Grosvenor Hotel in Chester for five years.

This is his third pub and he is passionate about using local produce. He took it on with his fiance Suzanne Mullee last September. The couple have a little boy, called Harvey, and plan to marry next year. They are hoping to improve the beer garden and refurbish the interior. The head chef is Tim Mulholland who has worked to two AA rosette standard.

Back to our undercover review, which came about after the pub was recommended by a reader. For starters I chose chicken liver and smokey bacon parfait with pear and apple chutney (£4.95).

My Simon had poached haddock on bacon with hollandaise and a poached free range egg (£5.25). Our friends both ordered goat’s cheese and roasted beetroot tartlets with wilted baby spinach (£4.95). They enjoy cooking and had recently prepared their own beetroot soup, so beetroot was obviously ‘in’ in the Weaver household.

Simon and Theresa’s tartlets arrived first. They were so dainty and prettily presented that my Simon asked if they were sure it was a starter and not a dessert. His poached haddock again looked impressive on full slices of bacon and I was delighted with what was put down in from of me.

The pate came as two large scoops on good-sized slices of crusty toasted bread, drizzled with olive oil and Balsamic vinegar, complemented with fresh leaves and sweet chutney. It was absolutely delicious and its coarse texture proved it was home-made. It was thumbs up all round for the remaining starters.

The mains were again very impressive. The two Simons both found their rarebit glazed cod loin with juicy stir fried vegetables (£9.45) very tasty, as were their extra hand-cut chips (£2.25).

Theresa loved her seared pork loin with Cumberland sausage and colcannon mash (£9.95), saying that the mash was exactly as it should be.

As for my dish, I really couldn’t have been happier. I had game cassoulet with a Shropshire Blue crust and crispy parmentier potatoes (£9.95). It was gorgeous, with tender pieces of meat in a fab gravy, tiny roast-type potatoes and a nice, small crust. I had ordered market vegetables (£2.25) as well, and it was all totally delicious.

For our third course both couples chose two-person cheese and biscuit spreads for £8.75 which included five local cheeses, biscuits, celery and grapes and came on huge platters.

The Bull and Dog also does Sunday lunch (£8.45), a Wednesday night offer of two courses for two people including a bottle of wine (£29.95) and an early bird menu between 5pm-7pm, Tuesday to Friday.

I think I’ll join our reader in recommending The Bull and Dog!

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Pan-fried king prawns a la creme on a toasted crumpet (£5.25)

Olives, organic breads and oils (£3.95)

Main courses

Hereford blackened rib eye beef with caramelised mushrooms, onions and tomato panche (£13.95)

Baked egg plant with roasted Italian veg and crispy cous cous (£8.95)

Desserts

Flaming vanilla creme brulee (£4.75)

Sticky toffee pudding with toffee sauce (£4.75)

ATMOSPHERE

Quiet at first, before getting a bit busier later on. We were made to feel very welcome.

SERVICE

Staff were very efficient, courteous and interested. Excellent service overall.

DISABLED FACILITIES

Flat entrance at front, ramp at rear and future plans for a disabled toilet.

Contact

The Bull and Dog, Coton, Whitchurch SY13 2RA. Tel: 01948 880559