Turn back time with a trek across Scillies

Thursday 18th September 2008, 10:56AM BST.

scillyisles.jpgSit down, put your feet up and turn the clock back to the days when the only noise to break the sound of silence was bird song and the happy chatter of playing children.

When nobody bothered to lock their front door and cars were a novelty.

Now fast forward to today and get on your bike in the Scilly Islands where time waits for everybody.

The archipelago is only 28 miles off the coast of Cornwall but it is light years away from the hustle and bustle of the mainland.

Five of the islands are inhabited by the largest of these, St Mary’s, only measures three by two miles. The others are Tresco, Bryher, St Agnes and St Martins.

St Mary’s has a trickle of traffic but no traffic lights and is home to the only two policemen based in the Scillies.

It takes around two and a half hours to get there by sea from Penzance while a flight can be as short as a 15 minute hop from Lands End.

The azure water and soap powder white sand looked more like the Caribbean as we arrived on a sun-kissed evening to find gigs slicing through the sea into St Mary’s harbour.

In the days of sail these 32 feet long, six oared boats raced pilots out to ships with the winner securing the lucrative business of guiding visitors through the treacherous waters to harbour.

Now they just race for the sake of it and treat visitors to the remarkable spectacle of them powering along to shouts of encouragement from an accompanying flotilla of spectator craft.

Memorable sights come thick and fast on the Scillies and it is easy to see why they have been designated an area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

Flawless unspoilt beaches are everywhere along with idyllic coastal walks that produce jaw-dropping views around almost every corner.

The wildlife ranges from rare migratory birds to puffins and seals and is best spotted on boat trips to the uninhabited islands.

The Scillies is also a horticultural heaven with the jewel in the crown being the world famous Abbey Gardens on Tresco , that were established by Augustus Smith.

He was a wealthy merchant banker who was also a keen botanist and plant collector and encouraged sailors to bring back exotic species from voyages to distant places.

The temperate climate of the Scillies and his expertise allowed them to flourish in gardens that are still a delight over 100 years later.

Along the coast is the studio of famous artist Richard Pearce where you can buy an original – or more likely a print – of his striking seascapes as a constant reminder of what makes the Scillies so special.



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