Star rating: **** Eating out should be one of life’s simple pleasures, writes Tracey O’Sullivan. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t expect it be top notch or that it can’t be a little more fussy when it comes to special occasions.

But who among us doesn’t just love that last-minute decision to ditch the cooking and washing up and go out instead.

It’s that 5.30pm-6pm moment, normally Monday to Thursday, when your partner says “let’s eat out tonight” and you breathe a massive sigh of relief. But even if it is last-minute, you want to go somewhere which appears to have been preparing for your visit for weeks.

Now while Ludlow may have cornered the Shropshire market for doing it Michelin-style, it’s hardly conducive to that mid-week, last-minute kind of treat.

Luckily for the rest of us the east of Shropshire is fast becoming something of a mecca for the gastro pub. Eleventh hour visits a speciality.

Variety being the spice of life, it’s even better now we have a new and improved culinary establishment on the block.

The Swan at Forton has been taken over by manager John Duncan, formerly of the Countess’s Arms at Weston Heath, and while there are still areas to be covered in the ongoing makeover, John has set his stall out by getting his priorities straight – his revamp has started with the food.

The decor still needs a few touches here and there to give it that contemporary feel.

While the bar with its leather armchairs provides the perfect area to peruse the menu, the conservatory resturarant overlooking a car park is something which just doesn’t do it justice at the moment. Conservatories are intended as a room with a view – just not this one. But this is a work in progress and one going in the right direction.

The Swan of old was far too dependent on easy-to-do dishes, not done very well. It was lazy, unimaginative, boasting nothing special to drag you that bit further towards the Shropshire border.

But now it is well worth the extra few miles – even with soaring fuel costs. The menu still pays tribute to some of the best traditions of pub grub but it celebrates them with a special section headlined home comforts.

But for starters I was tempted with the grilled teriyaki chicken skewers which were prepared expertly with a tangy sauce for dipping. They were so good it was the first time I felt reluctant to share or off-load my food with my dining companion.

I throughly enjoyed mine as he tucked in heartily to the Italian style meatballs with linguine and tomato for starters (both £4.50).

Hot starters can terrify those with a small appetite, filling them up in an instant and ruining the main course. You certainly get plenty for your money. Deliciously coated in a herb-infused tomato sauce, each one he described as a little taste of Italy.

For the main course I could resist the home comforts no longer and went for the classic burger while the roasted shoulder of Shropshire lamb was the other dish brought to the table.

Feeling a little like we wanted to be indulgent we also had the vine tomato & mozzarella salad (£7.95) with beetroot, red onion & basil as a side dish.

The burger was a classic, succulent and generously porportioned and cooked on the right side of well done – ie, not dried out as sometimes can be a failing.

The lamb was immense; rich in flavour, soft in texture and accompanied with devilish dauphinoise. The vine tomato salad with beetroot was fresh and the basil retained its urgent flavour. Delicious all round.

It was almost impossible to fault the food and with plans for a local produce shop in the bar area there is no doubt the right ingredients are a priority here.

They certainly have the key components in place for a great eating out venue – honest food cooked superbly, service that is friendly, on-the-ball and staff who know what they are talking about. Now if they can achieve the impossible and move the car park, it’s perfection on a plate.

DETAILS
The Swan at Forton, near Newport
Tel: 01952 812169

MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Garlic king prawns with sweet chilli; dipping sauce £5.95; Smoked salmon & dill fishcake £4.95

Main courses
Deep fried haddock in beer batter with chips & mushy peas £7.95;Potato gnocchi with tomato and basil sauce £7.95; Sweet potato, goat’s cheese and spinach lasagne £7.95

Sides and Bar Nibbles
Olives and warm breads £1.75; Cheese board £5.75.

SERVICE
Friendly, knowledgeable and efficient.

DISABLED FACILITIES
Access available.