Star rating: * * * *

Driving along Holyhead Road in Telford with my partner Simon, we noticed a sign outside a former pub saying it was soon reopening as a restaurant.

When I commented on the bravery of people opening a new business in the much-hyped current “credit crunch” climate, Simon suggested we try it out.

Yet as with everything, actually getting round to doing it was another matter, as children and other commitments come first.

It took a push from friends, a couple of who live within walking distance of Mauchak, to finally get us through the door.

The locals, Sue and Gail, had quick-stepped themselves down to the place as soon as it opened its doors. After trying it out they were so impressed that they began urging the rest of us to follow suit.

Simon and I had originally planned to go and review the place ourselves, as we normally do, and book a table for two.

But via a number of texts flying around that Friday night, we discovered that Sue and Gail and another couple of friends, Gail and Mark (I’ll have to call them Gail Number 1 and Gail Number 2), were also planning to dine there that night, so we decided to all go together.

Simon and I arrived with Mark and Gail (No.2), after getting a much appreciated lift from them.

I had visited the former pub which, if I remember correctly, had had different ‘lives’ over the years – even at one time sporting a life-size plastic cow or something on its roof?

From last walking in I remember seeing lots of wood. Wooden bars, wooden steps down to different levels, wooden tables and chairs. In essence it was your typical ‘we’re trying-to-be-trendy’ Irish pub, or real ale pub or whatever it was at that time.

And it’s all very different now. It had obviously been gutted throughout, with its internal layout redesigned. The wooden floors have been replaced with clean carpets and the bar has vanished.

The walls are whiter than white, apart from a few statement walls and the windows are brand new. There are moden tables with leather-look tall chairs and the occasional picture on the wall.

The ladies in our group all remarked how the interior design must have been done by a man. It was all a bit too plain, with nothing at all on the windows and only the odd picture. Perhaps there’s a few more pictures to be hung. Let’s hope so.

But back to the food. We had been shown to a table for six by friendly, smiling, professional-looking waiters. They handed us, what I have to say, was a very comprehensive menu.

I don’t think I’ve ever seen such a big choice from an Indian restaurant before. In fact there was so much to choose from, that we remarked how you could go back to Mauchak’s week after week until you’d tried it all.

We snacked on popadoms and dips while checking out the menu.

Sue and Gail (No.1) and Mark and Gail (No.2), had eaten more than once there. They said that everything they had eaten was great and Sue had quickly become addicted to one dish.

No doubt they have eaten there another dozen times since our visit together, as they seem to be addicted to Indian food.

I quite fancy the ‘odd English’ myself, but I’m too nervous to tell the rest of the group, as I think they’ll all turn round to stare at me in absolute horror.

I ordered my all-time favourite Indian starter, the classic onion bharji (£2.95). Simon chose mich mach toti (pan fried chicken cakes with basil and ginger, £5.50), Gail (No.1) went for dalbada (spiced lentil dumplings and chick peas, topped with sweetened yoghurt and taramind) (£4.25).

Sue opted for rainbow chilli lamb (fine cut strips of lamb spiced and flavoured in an oriental sauce, £4.25), Gail (No.2) had garlic mushrooms cooked in a creamy garlic sauce (£3.25) and Mark plumped for samosa (spiced mince lamb pastries served with salad, £2.95).

For main course I had king prawn balti cooked with a special combination of fresh spices (£9.50) with coconut rice (£2.95).

Simon had handi chicken (a chef’s speciality, £9.50), Gail (No.1) had sagorama chicken (boneless tandoori chicken cooked with butter, tomatoes, cream, almonds, pistachios and sultanas, £7.95) with a nan bread (£2.10).

Sue chose baba murgh (chicken tikka cooked with onion, peppers, tomato, ginger, thick sauce and sesame seeds on top, £7.95) with pilau rice (£2.50). Gail (No.2) had a tandoor dish, chicken shashlick (£8.95) with green salad (£1.50) and finally, Mark ordered chicken makhni (chicken tikka cooked in butter, cream, garlic and a rich tomato sauce, £7.95) with pilau rice (£2.50).

My starter came as two large onion bhajis. They were hot, very tasty, light, moist (in my opinion a dry onion bharji is about as enjoyable as eating a drying out car wash sponge), and I was very happy with them indeed. The salad garnish was fresh.

My king prawn balti was delicious. Although the sauce looked as bright orange as the sauce in Mark’s chicken makhni (so much so that we thought the waiters had brought him the wrong dish), both were very different. Mine was as you’d expect, a kind of tikka masala sauce, while Mark’s was very sweet.

The king prawns in my dish were lovely and there was enough of them. At first I felt my coconut rice was quite dry, but I think this was intentional, as it blended beautifully with the sauce, which there was a lot of. I’d been served – as everyone else had – a decent sized portion to get stuck into. I found my food very satisfyng and tasty.

Simon said his starter was very good. It was nicely presented, hot and there was plenty of it. His main course was presented differently, with a japati covering the bowl. He had a small amount of sauce, served separately. The dish was quite creamy and the chicken pieces were good.

I have to say that all six of us were very pleased with our food. And, as we’d all had different dishes, that says a lot for the chef. He obviously knows what he’s doing.

All this very good food had been washed down with lashings of Indian lager or red wine.

On asking for the bill (£139), we were were asked if we would like a complimentary drink from the bar. They do this all the time apparently, but Gail and Sue had always politely refused. Well that’s silly now isn’t it. The rest of us persuaded them that it would be rude to refuse.

We’d all had a good time, very much enjoying the food and company. No doubt we’ll (ALL) be back.

By Cathy Stanworth

MENU SAMPLE

Starters: Malekhu Salmon(£5.75); Chicken Chat Puri (£3.50)

Mains: Lamb Pasanda (£7.95); Vegetable Karai (£5.55)

Sides: Bombay Aloo (£2.95); Tarka Daal (£2.95)

Desserts: Menu on request

ATMOSPHERE: Friendly and welcoming with waiters who actually smile and seem pleased you are there. Quite busy.

SERVICE: Excellent. Waiters are patient while taking your order and are happy to explain dishes.

DISABLED FACILITIES: Flatish access into venue, though wheelchair users may struggle through the entrance hall. Steps here and there in the restaurant. So probably not ideal.

Contact: Mauchak, 105 Holyhead Road, Ketley, Telford (01952) 616699