Star rating: ***** Kirsty Marston takes time out to celebrate an important family birthday and is impressed by a pub which cooks from fresh.

As I have made the journey from Telford to my nan’s house in Montgomery over the last few months, I have seen the transformation of The Lowfield Inn at Marton.

During my most recent journey to take my nan out for lunch on her birthday, I noticed a sign offering “fresh food all day”. It was obviously open.

The pub, with timber beam and frame, looked inviting. So, after picking my nan up and also meeting my mum, I suggested we make the short journey back to the pub for the birthday lunch.

On arrival we discovered we were only the second customers of the lunchtime but it was only just after midday.

But despite quiet pubs often failing to give customers a warm welcome, The Lowfield succeeded to please. A friendly smile from behind the bar and the music playing at just the right volume was all that was needed. First impressions are always the most important – we were impressed.

The pub was large and boasted chunky oak tables with various style chairs – high-back sensible chairs for diners or comfy sofas for a relaxing afternoon.

Then I spotted the outdoor area. With the sun shining it was perfect for mum and and with the huge canopy-style umbrella there was shade for nan. I escorted nan to an indoor table as we decided it would be too hot for her outside but the sun beaming into the pub got the better of us after a few minutes and we moved outside, just until our food arrived.

The young man behind the bar was pleasant and dressed in jeans and black shirt – casual but smart – perfect for the style of the pub. As we perused the menu, many more diners arrived. And the perusing continued – both my Mum and I changed our minds nearly as many times as the number of candles there should have been on nan’s birthday cake!

We were firstly going to order starters as main courses because they were so tempting – but with a side order of hand cut chips, of course. Then we were on the full main courses and then on to the sandwiches – we wanted everything.

The menu had obviously been well thought out by the chef and with the huge selection of local produce we really were spoilt for choice.

A message on the menu stated that all food was cooked “fresh on the premises” and to order so there could be a bit of a wait. But owners, Dave and Fletch, noted “but it’s worth it.” How right they were.

As we, once again, got embroiled in conversation about the only subject possible between a girl, her mum and her nan – her wedding – the waiter called us to our table. The first two large plates he brought boasted my homemade 8oz beef burger, with cheese, tomato relish, coleslaw and handcut chips (£9.50).

On the other and equally as generous was my mum’s hot free range cajun chicken salad with garlic mayonnaise (£9). Going by the orders you may think the mother-of-the-bride was thinking about her wedding outfit more than the bride-to-be but then her side order of hand cut chips arrived.

Nan’s usual Tuesday’s meals on wheels were replaced by her choice of faggots, mash and peas with rich onion gravy. She would have usually been put off such a main course but a note on the menu offered any main course at a £2 reduction for a smaller children’s portion.

When ordering at the bar I asked if it would be a problem if I ordered the smaller portion for my nan. Again the barman who could not do enough for us said she was more than welcome. My meal was delicious; a tasty, succulent burger flavoured with herbs with a spread of tomato relish, so much more elegant than a tomato slice.

The homemade chips were soon gone and I even found my fingers travelling over to mum’s portion too.

Mum’s salad was fresh and generous with a huge spiced chicken portion on the top. My mum’s only comment was that the salad could have had some dressing on it before the chicken was put on but this was personal preference and the waiter had offered us sauces and we had declined.

My nan must have enjoyed her large single faggot because she wasn’t trying to dish it out to us before even starting, like she usually does when she is faced by large portions.

Despite all feeling full, we couldn’t resist the sweet menu. Nan had plum creme brulee, mum ordered the pecan pie while I polished off the black forest roulade.

Everything about The Lowfield was top quality – service, food and venue. The waiter, who I sensed was one of the owners, said they had been open just 10 weeks.

If they continue as they have started out I will certainly be back. My only criticism is that it is on my nan’s doorstep rather than mine.

The Lowfield Inn, Marton

01743 891313

www.horns-boningale.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Duo of salmon (smoked and home cured) with Welsh oatcakes and chive creme fraiche (£5);

Grilled goat’s cheese on ciabatta with beetroot relish, candied walnuts and basil oil (£5.50)

Main courses

Local pork and leek sausages with bubble and squeak and onion gravy (£8.50);

Pan-fried sea bass, crushed new potatoes, green beans and tarragon butter sauce (£11.75); local 10oz rump/8oz sirloin with mushrooms, tomatoes, roasted shallots and handcut chips (£13.75); a range of sandwiches and salads including tuna, shallot and black pepper mayo on ciabatta (£4.75)

Sides

Bread basket (£1.50); side salad (£2)

Desserts

Apple crumble with cinnamon ice-cream and custard (£4.50)

ATMOSPHERE

Relaxed and informal pub atmosphere but an evening booking would give it a restaurant feel.

SERVICE

Excellent. Staff were genuinely trying to impress.

DISABLED FACILITIES

Wide main door for wheelchair access and also wheelchair access to the large outdoor patio area.