Star rating: *** Most pubs that attempt to cater for more than just one form of clientele sometimes fail miserably. Indeed, it is rare to find somewhere that easily crosses the divide between customers.

Okay, let me explain. People in pubs usually fall into a number of categories – lads looking for a drink and a game of pool, families with their ‘darling’ offspring and then, of course, the ‘sofa crowd’.

I’m sure you know the sort of customer – big, comfy settee, bottle of wine, lots of giggles.

Anyway, back to my point – mixing these different styles can often lead to confusion.

But the Woolpack in Shawbirch is certainly giving it a try.

The food is not fine dining and there is little sign of silver service, but that is not what the customers expect.

The lads playing pool in one corner made an appearance, as did the families and the much-maligned ‘sofa crowd’.

But how would our meals take their place amid this mix of styles and clientele?

Rather well, actually.

For my main course, I decided to have the pork loin steak, while Claire opted for the steak and ale pie.

I am a big fan of pork and my main course ticked all the right boxes. The dish that arrived before me had bags of character and was accompanied by a lovely cider sauce. Granted, there was just a tiny bit of fat, but then again, I wasn’t paying top prices for my meal.

It was cooked without offering too much in the way of moisture, but then again, it wasn’t too dry. I knew what I was getting.

The vegetables passed muster with very little bother and the accompanying chips were both plentiful and enjoyable.

Claire was equally impressed with her steak and ale pie. On many occasions, a steak pie will not be any bigger than the average home offering and with little actual meat inside.

Claire’s pie, however, was simply huge. The only thing missing, I suspect, was the Desperate Dan-style horns sticking out of the top.

Bearing in mind that she is supposed to be eating for two at the moment, she let herself down with a great deal of the plate still left to clear.

In a fit of guilt – she hates leaving food – Claire attempted to force me into devouring some of her pie, just to avoid having to present a less-than-empty plate at the end of the meal.

Actually, this gave me a chance to sample the meat inside and, in fact, give it a hearty thumbs-up. Plenty of it and make it tasty. That is what we asked for and that is that we got.

The desserts, however, did not reach the same standards. From the heights of a lovely main course, I was brought down to earth with a considerable bump.

While Claire chose the simplicity of an ice-cream-based dessert – you can’t wrong there – I was tempted by the complexities of a chocolate waffle pudding.

Clearly, the dish had collapsed or even exploded in the microwave during the heating process and was simply messy.

The taste was not a problem and I would no doubt order it again, but on this occasion, it didn’t look its best.

Even the waiter apologised on bringing it over, which begs the question: why not heat another one?

But exploding waffles apart, there were few reasons to complain, and that appeared to be the case throughout the pub.

That mix of customers, for once, seems to be working rather well.

ADDRESS
The Woolpack, Shawbirch, Telford.
Tel: 01952 243562

MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Prawn cocktail (£2.75); Spicy chicken wings (£2.65)

Main courses
Mixed grill (£5.99); Lamb shank (£7.45)

Desserts
Banoffee pie (£2.95); Waffle stack (£2.95)
(All desserts £1.50 on Sundays)

ATMOSPHERE
Warm and lively, but with enough room to allow quiet reflection for those who want it.

SERVICE
Friendly and attentive.

DISABLED FACILITIES
There are disabled toilets and most of the pub is on one level.

By James Shaw