Star Rating: ****

There is no doubt that the smoking ban has created certain challenges for Britain’s pubs and clubs.

And while some have been unable to adapt and survive, others have seen not a problem, but an opportunity and, if the world is even in the least bit fair, should thrive.

One such place is the Hop and Friar in Shrewsbury, a pub which, before the ban, was merely a stop off point for people going from the Belle Vue area into the town centre for a night out.

But when the ban came in the owners took the decision to redecorate, do up the outside area and introduce a brand new menu, which will eventually include specialities such as tapas.

When myself and two friends decided to pop in on a week night, such specialities were not yet up and running, but the food on offer on the “run of the mill” pub menu was more than tempting enough to convince us to stick around.

Once we had bought a round of drinks we nipped out to the smoking area through the back so one of the party could partake in that particular “pleasure” as we glanced over the menus to make our choices before going to the bar to place our order.

There were no starters on the menus we were provided with, but that was not an issue for us, as we had all already decided we just wanted to tuck into the main courses as soon as possible.

My friend Simon opted for what is becoming something of a speciality at the Hop – meatballs, which he chose to have served with rice (his other choices being chips and spaghetti).

His partner, Rhea, selected a healthy (ish) warm chicken and bacon salad, while I decided to go with a pub grub classic in the form of ham, eggs and chips.

The food was not long in coming and we decided to move inside to fill our faces, although we could have chosen to stay outside if we so desired – something which a few diners had selected to do on what was a pleasant late summer’s evening.

The meatballs, I am assured, were fantastic. I will have to go on Simon’s own opinion of them because, even if I had wanted to sample a portion, there was no chance, as they disappeared from the plate at a frightening speed.

However, Simon insisted the meatballs were just as they should be, served in a spicy tomato sauce and fluffy aromatic rice.

The chicken salad smelled wonderful. The chicken was nice and tender and the salad crisp to the bite.

The ham was equally fantastic. The main ingredient is locally sourced and served with fluffy chips and home made coleslaw. I thought the size of the portion would defeat me – it was huge – but such was the quality of the meal there was no way I was letting any go to waste.

Only two of us opted for desserts, Simon being tempted by the spotted dick, which he had with ice-cream, while I went for another classic, syrup sponge with custard.

The sponge was exactly what I expect from a pub dessert – piping hot and filling without being sickly. And I am delighted to report it was served with fresh custard.

The spotted dick, too, was steaming when it came out and served with home-made style ice-cream rather than some cheap tub of vanilla that some pubs seem to find acceptable.

At the end of it all, all three of us were just nicely full. A further pleasant surprise was the overall total for the three meals – a very reasonable £48.15, which included three rounds of drinks.

I, for one, am very much looking forward to the full menu coming in. I love tapas and can’t wait to see what they make of it. The only problem I can foresee is that I could end up spending far too much time in there – it’s far too close to my home.

By David Burrows

MENU SAMPLE

Starters: Garlic mushrooms (£3.25); chicken wings in garlic (£3.50).

Main courses: Friar’s mixed grill (rump steak, gammon steak, two pork sausages (£9.95); Seafood Paella (£6.95).

Desserts: A selection of British deserts (from £2.95).

Atmosphere: Relaxed and amiable.

Service: Friendly. Not overbearing.

Disabled Facilities: Easy access to the pub although some may struggle with the toilets.

Smoking Policy: Outside smoking area at the rear.

Contact details: The Hop and Friar, St Julian’s Friars, Shrewsbury. Telephone (01743) 344339