Star rating: ****

Over the years I have been a frequent traveller along the A5 north of Shrewsbury and in all that time I never popped into what was then a country pub – the Nesscliffe Hotel.

Often tempted, I always seemed to be on a tight schedule to reach my destination. And then the Nesscliffe bypass took me round the village and it disappeared into memory.

I heard that it had closed, then it was said to be sold, then it was back on the market and so on. Last autumn it re-opened as a restaurant The Sky 7 at The Nesscliffe Hotel and more recently a colleague said he had enjoyed a lovely meal there.

So, on a lovely Saturday off I went with son, his girlfriend and his grandmother for a family catch up.

We chose Sky 7 simply because it close to where granny lives – and I am so glad she does live just down the road! We had a simply excellent meal with first class service and at a very reasonable price.

The interior has been completely re-vamped retaining a country house hotel feel with a good dollop of contemporary style. Large tables, crisp white tablecloths and napkins, good quality china, cutlery and glassware abound.

Charming and smiling staff gave us the pick of the tables and after ordering drinks we settled back with the extensive menu.

Such large lists usually make me wary – how can a kitchen turn out quality food with so many options? Some do and some fail miserably.

At Sky 7 the chef is obviously very experienced and talented.

Between us we had 11 different dishes (don’t forget my son has hollow legs and comes back from university to fuel up) and all scored highly.

The menu is an eclectic mix mainly of Chinese, Japanese and Thai.

Granny had a duck salad (£5) which was the size of a main course. Shredded duck on a bed of mixed green leaves drizzled with a sweet and sour dressing.

I am afraid she had to admit defeat just over half way through but purely on the grounds she wouldn’t have room for her main course!

Son had one of his favourite foods – scallops. There were three juicy scallops which had been steamed with vermicelli, ginger and spring onion (£2.50 each). Plump, sweet, juicy and not overcooked was the verdict.

His girlfriend went for Sea king rolls (£4.50) another large dish.

Forget the normal size roll you expect in a Chinese restaurant these were at least twice the girth!

A plate arrived with three of said rolls filled with chopped king prawn and scallop with fresh fruit which had been deep fried.

They were moist and crisp outside and not at all oily from the deep frying. Give the girl her due she cleared the plate with the help of son.

I had soft shelled crab (£3 each) and rather foolishly ordered two when one would have been enough. But then Alex did sample as well. They were crispy fried and then tossed with spicy salt and chilli – quite hot and totally wonderful.

Granny then had beef in black bean sauce (£7). I know this sounds boring by now but yet another large portion. Succulent strips of beef in a lightish black bean sauce with peppers and all sorts of goodies was lovely she said.

Alex had duck in plum sauce (£7.50), an old staple of oriental restaurant but often overcooked and over sauced. This was not. An entire breast was served pink and nicely sliced with a tangy sauce and vegetables. The duck was tender and all disappeared off the plate.

Annie had beef with black bean sauce and crispy noodles. And, as you would expect, was the same as granny’s with the addition of the noddles

I had crispy shredded beef (£7) which arrived served in a bird’s nest arrangement with strips of stir-fried carrots in sesame oil. Another winner.

Now if we had known how big the portions were going to be we would not have chosen three side dishes as well!

Pak choi (Chinese greens) with oyster sauce (£4.50), fried soft noodles with bean sprouts (£4) and egg fried rice (£3) were a step too far.

The greens were flavoursome and not overcooked and the rice was fluffy. Noodles with bean sprouts is one of my favourite dishes and I could quite happily have just had this dish.

Hot towels arrived at the table and also a large platter of freshly sliced fruit including apple, melon, orange and mango to cleanse the palate, a nice touch.

There is the usual range of bar drinks and a fairly priced wine list.

I really needed a little nap after eating that little lot but as I was the only driver, no chance!

by Sharon Walters

contact details

Sky 7 Restaurant, Nesscliffe, SY4 1DB

Telephone 01743 741698

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Thai fish cakes in a sweet Thai chilli sauce (£4.50);

deep fried squid with spicy salt and chilli (£4.50); deep fried crispy won ton parcels (£3.50).

Main courses

Yakitori salmon – grilled salmon fillet served in a Japanese style sauce (£8.50); Wasabi fillet steak (£9); fresh seafood medley – scallops, prawns and squid served with asparagus in a bird’s nest (£10).

Sides

Steamed fragrant Jasmine rice (£2.50); Choi sum (Chinese greens cooked in garlic or oyster sauce (£4.50).

ATMOSPHERE

We visited on a very quiet lunchtime, we were the only table, but I am sure it hums when busy.

SERVICE

Excellent service. Attentive but not too intrusive.

DISABLED FACILITIES

No disabled facilities.

smoking policy

No smoking.