We’ve got a taste for local
Tuesday 3rd April 2007, 7:48PM BST.
Back in 1919, a year after the Great War had wreaked havoc across Europe, Jack Cohen began selling groceries from a stall in London’s East End. His first day’s profit was £1.
Forward-wind to 2006 and the company he founded with TE Stockwell – Tesco – makes £5.5 million profit a day.
It was a remarkable rise from humble beginnings to super status. But one of Britain’s biggest success stories has gone from hero to zero in less than a decade as its retail dominance crushes everyone in its wake.
Amazingly, one pound in every three spent in supermarkets is now spent in a Tesco outlet.
Yet while convenience shoppers continue to pile their trollies high with everything from the latest “buy one, get one free” offers to cut-price electrical goods, another revolution has been gathering pace in the shadows.
So much so that in the past few years it has moved quite firmly into the spotlight.
Regional, seasonal food is not just the preserve of tambourine-tapping, sandal-wearing tree-huggers desperate to reduce food miles and celebrate Mother Nature’s offerings.
The bandwagon now covers the entire spectrum of shoppers who realise that supporting local producers has a positive knock-on effect to the local economy.
Tish Dockerty has been organising Shropshire Hills Farmers’ Markets for the past couple of years, relaunching this year to inspire existing stallholders and attract new producers.
With six markets to manage in Bishop’s Castle, Church Stretton, Craven Arms, Knighton, Much Wenlock and Ludlow, she has her work cut out to say the least.
She moved to Ludlow from a high-flying job in Manchester because of what the town had to offer her young family – most notably its food – and helped pioneer “Local to Ludlow”, a commitment to promoting produce within 30 miles of the town and supporting the army of local producers who work tirelessly to raise the region’s profile.
“Supporting local farmers essentially supports the wider rural economy, that’s aside from the benefits to the environment of reduced food miles and greener production methods,” she says.
“Ludlow has to stand on its own, whether we have Michelin chefs or not, and the way of boosting the industry is to get people involved in the farmers’ markets. The same goes for Bishop’s Castle, Church Stretton, Craven Arms, Knighton and Much Wenlock.”
Rob Ward has shown how locally-sourced produce can make a big splash on the supermarket’s own patch. It’s almost a case of “if they won’t come to us, we’ll come to them”.
From humble surroundings at Green Fields in Muxton, Telford, Rob has now been chosen to supply Asda stores in Shropshire and Staffordshire with local produce.
“The reality is people like one-stop shopping, so this is an ideal opportunity to reach vast numbers of people in our local area,” he says.
“If you look at the figures, 70 per cent of the population want local food but only two per cent are actually buying it. As far as we are concerned this is a phenomenal chance for local food businesses to grow and promote themselves to people who are not presently buying their food.”
His newly-founded online service has, however, thrown up some interesting information.
“We deliver all across the TF postcode area and it’s not just the traditional ‘young professional couple with kids’ stereotype who order. We go from Stirchley to Newport and both young and old are subscribing to this food and lifestyle choice.”
Norman Pearce, who runs the Sun Inn at Corfton, has been championing local beer ever since he took the helm 22 years ago.
Renowned across the Midlands and beyond, Norman has deliberately shunned the supermarkets in favour of farmers’ markets.
“It is not just the dairy farmers who get screwed down on price by the supermarkets, they’re doing it to every producer in the land,” he explains.
“Gone are the days when you used to negotiate. It’s the price they say or they go somewhere else.
“I didn’t want to be part of that,” he says.
“I want to be part of a niche market where all the independent producers support each other. There are countless occasions where a pub rings me at 8pm on a Saturday night and wants a couple of barrels for the next day because they’ve run out. That would simply not be possible with a large brewery.”
However, he wants more recognition for the local drinks producer.
He points out: “I went to an event 18 months ago which was celebrating the region’s produce. There was goat’s cheese from Warwickshire, pork from north Shropshire and organic ice cream from Telford, but the wine was Australian chardonnay. We need to think more about regional beers and wine.
“John Ellis from the Crown in Oakengates always quotes this statistic that there are more micro-breweries per head of population in Shropshire than anywhere in Britain, yet it’s often an afterthought at these events.
“Let’s support everyone, that way we can give the supermarkets a real run for their money.”
By Rural Affairs Editor Nathan Rous
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A PITY ABOUT THE GARISH ADVERTISING ON THE OPENING PAGE (THOUGH I REALISE IT PAYS FOR IT)AS OTHERWISE I FOUND THIS TO BE VERY INTERESTING & INFORMATIVE. WELL DONE & THANKS.
PITY IT’S SO HIDDEN AWAY – IT DESERVES BETTER RECOGNITION…AS DO OUR HOST OF SHROPSHIRE BREWERIES.
PLEASE KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK
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