Rating: *** I realised I was getting old when I looked in the mirror the other day – and saw my mother looking back at me.

However, it seems there is still something remaining of the girl I was once. For twice in as many weeks I have been recognised by people whom I haven’t seen for a quarter of a century or more!

The first was during a visit to a local sixth-form college when the head of German said: “You went to Oswestry Girls’ High School – you’re Sue Moir aren’t you?”

The second was when hubbie and I arrived at the Black Horse at Maesbrook near Oswestry for a meal.

After serving our drinks the landlord returned, and announced: “I used to work with you!”

Mentally replacing the now grey hair with black I realised it was the Steve Parr I had worked with on the Shrewsbury Chronicle in the early, very early, 1980s!

Steve and his wife Anne took over the Black Horse in September, realising their dream of one day running their own pub.

After what Steve admits was a difficult few weeks of adjusting, they are now enjoying life in a very traditional, country pub, he behind the bar and Ann creating the pub and restaurant meals.

Before being spotted by mine host it had already been a step back in time, the Black Horse was  a favourite haunt for us in the late 70s. The pub itself has hardly changed outside, or in the bar and lounge with its beams, welcoming fireplace and olde-worlde pub tables.

New are what appear to be not one but two extensions to house the ever-increasing trend for eating out.

The menu too has changed from the chicken and chips in a basket. We studied the menu with a cider, although I was cross that I had not spotted the signs announcing warm mulled wine.

And it didn’t seem long before we were shown to our table in the restaurant that is again very traditional. Thankfully the menu had both traditional choices and those more up to date.

Mel’s starter was literally a twist on his favourite. The mushroom and stilton knots (£3.50) were three filo parcels filled with tasty mushrooms and stilton with salad – delicious but lacking a dip such as that with the breaded mushrooms.

My garlic bread (£1.75) was four huge slices of baguette soaked in buttery garlic and herbs, toasted outside and lovely and soft on the inside.

My main choice was equally tasty. Somerset chicken (£8.95) was slices of chicken breast with large pieces of bacon, sliced mushrooms and apple in lots of cheese and cider sauce.

Going for something different was not so good for Mel. Scrumpy pork hock (£10.95) arrived looking like a carnivore’s dream, a huge bone full of meat. But he simply did not like the sauce.

We both chose chips and peas rather than potatoes and veg, rewarded with a huge bowlful.

Tradition came into its own with desserts. Mel’s lemon meringue pie (£3.50) was huge while my tiramisu (£3.50) was the highlight of my meal.

It is one of the desserts made by Anne herself. Too often restaurants put their own twist on tiramisu but this was just how I think it should be, just enough coffee and complete with deliciously rich mascarpone cheese.

The Black Horse doesn’t pretend to be anything other than a country pub – complete with regulars enjoying a pint – that also serves decent food.

My only plea to Steve is “get some heating in the ladies’”; they were still as cold as I remember them almost 30 years ago!

ADDRESS
The Black Horse, Maesbrook, Oswestry
Telephone 01691 682472

MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Soup of the day (£2.75).
Main courses
Cajun Chicken (£8.95), Spinach and ricotta cannelloni steak.

Desserts
Sherry trifle, apple betty pudding, mulled wine fruit pudding (all £3.50).

ATMOSPHERE
Typical country pub, very traditional.

SERVICE
Polite and attentive.

DISABLED FACILITIES
There is wheelchair access into the pub although the door to the ladies’ might be too narrow for wheelchair.

SMOKING POLICY
Smoking is only allowed in the bar.

By Sue Austin