Star rating: **** Ask your typical American tourist what they see as traditionally British and near the top of the list is, more often than not, “the pub”.

The type of pub with a range of real ales, dartboard, a couple of dogs sitting in front of a roaring fire, locals chewing the fat and wholesome bar food.

Sadly that stereotypical image is under threat and in many places fast disappearing.

In its place is the so-called gastro pub – a restaurant masquerading as a pub and charging restaurant prices for over blown and far too fancy food for your local boozer. A place where locals are not really welcome to prop up the bar and enjoy a pint,

Thankfully in Shropshire we still have some traditional pubs and the Horseshoes at Dorrington, on the A49 south of Shrewsbury, is one excellent example.

And yes, on the day I visited there was even a dog in the bar and several locals putting the world to rights over a drink.

There is what you would call a public bar and a lounge area and a separate attractive dining room for more formal eating. The landlord is most welcoming and we immediately felt comfortable.

It was Sunday lunchtime and I fancied a traditional roast. However on the board I spied, alongside the joints, whole roasted partridge and the temptation of a succulent bird was too much.

To start I had home-made carrot and coriander soup with bread (£2.95). It was piping hot and most flavoursome but could have done with a touch of cream to finish it off. My dining mate had garlic mushrooms (£4.25) which arrived stuffed with garlic and a lovely side salad. They were whole, rather than sliced, and actually tasted of mushroom – too often mushrooms these days just taste of water.

My whole roasted partridge (£9.95) was fantastic. Succlent and slightly gamey flesh just fell of the poor little bird’s bones.

There were roast potatoes, stuffing and sausage wrapped in bacon and a side dish (to share) of red cabbage, carrots and beans. Oh, and another sharing dish full of crisp cauliflower smothered in a rich cheese sauce. Far too much although I did see one table of three almost polish their equally generous portions of veg off.

Two slight criticisms, though. One the partridge could have been dressed out a little better, its rear end better plucked and tidied up and secondly the plate arrived swimming in gravy. Now the latter is really my fault, I don’t like loads of gravy and should have asked for it to be served separetly but I forgot.

Across the table the choice was roast beef and Yorkshire pudding (£6.50) and several thick slices arrived with a large pudding. The judgement was ‘perfect’ and it all quickly disappeared. It too came with roast potatoes.

We really were full by this time but after a little break managed to cast our eyes over the dessert menu and gave in.

I had a towering ice cream sundae (£2.95) bursting with meringue, ice cream, cream and chocolate sauce. Very decadent.

Not to be outdone in the decedance stakes Neil had a sticky, rich chocolate pudding (£3.95). However he failed at the final hurdle and had to leave some of it declaring he really must lose some weight.

A full menu is available on other days of the week.

Owners Mike and Dawn Carter have been at the Horseshoes since last April and have put their own stamp on the place.

They used to have a very successful village pub a few miles away that it was almost impossible to get in at and judging by the packed dining room and bar at the Horseshoes are heading for similar success.

And as a typical pub, hurray!

Sharon Walters

Contact details

The Horseshoes, Dorrington

01743 718305

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Smoked salmon and prawn salad (£4.25).

Main courses

Roast pork (£6.50);

apricot stuffed lamb (£7.50).

Desserts

Pear and blackcurrant crumble (£3.95);

raspberry creme brulee (£3.95).

ATMOSPHERE

Welcoming, relaxed and cosy.

SERVICE

Friendly and attentive.

DISABLED FACILITIES

There are disabled toilet facilities and access.

SMOKING POLICY

Smoking is only allowed in the bar, not in the restaurant.