I was outside my normal stamping ground so had taken advice on where to grab a tasty, reasonably-priced evening meal.

It was just after 6.30pm on a Saturday evening when we stepped into the heavily-beamed lounge bar, but there were already several people settled in having ordered their meals from a menu which was certainly extensive without being pretentious or over-imaginative.

We sat down at a corner table and found ourselves surrounded by more horse brasses than you could shake a riding crop at … in fact the horses’ harnesses as well as the carriage lamps added to the decoration.

It took some time to run through the choices — by which time more diners had arrived. Steak, gammon, chicken, various fish dishes, vegetarian options, pretty much all the usual options. There was a huge arsenal of kids’ concoctions: torpedoes, bombs, rockets and flying saucers; I’d no idea what they were but they sounded exciting.

We, however, stuck to the traditionally-named dishes and were ready to order, by which time even more people had arrived, many of them filtering through to the restaurant.

I buttonholed a waitress who cheerfully took our order. For starters Libby settled on the deep-fried Brie with cranberry sauce and a salad garnish (£3.95) and I went for the breaded whitebait with brown bread and salad (£3.95).

The menu pointed out that all food was prepared fresh so there would be some time to wait. No worries.

We sipped our glasses of some rather non-descript red house wine while we waited but as it turned out it was not an inordinate length of time.

My plate of breaded fry was excellent.

Twenty-five of the little darlings, nice and hot, a thin, crunchy coating and that distinct taste of the sea inside. Plenty of tartare sauce in a ramekin dish and several triangles of buttered brown bread — and some garnish. “Godidog”, as they apparently say in Wales.

Libby has never been disappointed with deep-fried Brie and the Cross Keys’ offering kept the slate clean — which was what Libby did with her plate. It was high on flavour and complemented by the cranberry sauce and salad garnish — so far it was two hits out of two.

Our plates were promptly cleared and then a nice, respectable wait (during which more customers arrived) before the mains were served.

The popularity of the pub was being more than amply emphasised that night.

I then realised that, despite the stream of hungry callers, the staff were coping, quietly and efficiently and were still making time to stop for the odd short chat. It was professionalism with a capital P.

So then to the main performance and for me it had to be minted Welsh lamb chops (£8.95). I’m a lamb fan anyway, and in this neck of the woods you can pretty well guarantee you’re getting prime, local stock. And so it proved.

A couple of excellent chops, cooked not a second too long and finely flavoured. As accompaniments I chose chunky fries and a salad (despite my wife’s disparaging comments) and enjoyed some delightful dining.

Libby also ran to form and selected grilled, filleted sea bass (£10.95), although I was a little concerned that she would compare it unfavourably with the bass she enjoyed in January caught fresh in the South China Sea off Vietnam.

But no, it was fresh, nicely cooked and had the added advantage of not being cooked with its innards (as is the way in South-east Asia). Libby said the new potatoes and carrots, broccoli and peas were cooked to her taste which leans towards the al dente.

We would have been over-reaching had we succumbed to the temptation of dessert, so called it a day at that and were pleasantly surprised the bill was under £28, plus drinks.

Important note: debit or credit cards not accepted.

By Rex Key

ADDRESS:
Cross Ceys Inn, Lllansantffraid
Tel: 01691 828450

MENU SAMPLE:
Starters:
Homemade chicken and veg soup (£2.95)
Grapefruit segments (£1.95)

Main courses:
Homemade steak and kidney pie (£7.95)

Sides:
Garlic bread (£1.95)
Onion rings (£1.45)

Desserts:
Orange sorbet (£3.25)
Bread and butter pudding (£3.25)

ATMOSPHERE:
Informal, unhurried and relaxing but locals ensure the place is far from dead

SERVICE:
Without fault, friendly, accommodating and always with a smile

DISABLED FACILITIES:
Small step in the bar area, narrow passages to the toilets

SMOKING POLICY:
Smoking allowed in the bar areas