We ate on a Monday and when we arrived we were the only customers there. Our waitress asked whether we’d like to dine in the wine bar or restaurant, the same menu being available in both.

The wine bar was a jazzy little area of high chairs and comfortable furnishings. The restaurant was similarly comfortable and oozed character. The floor sagged in the middle, there were old portraits adorning oak-panelled walls and wonderful wooden tables laid out with fine cutlery.

Before visiting, our friends told us that Cromwells had a well-earned reputation for generosity. And, with that in mind, we skipped the starters and headed straight to our main course.

My wife mulled over a dizzying array of dishes that were extremely appetising. Eventually, she opted for the vegetarian option of Roasted Butternut Squash with wild mushrooms, fresh sage and Papadelle pasta served in fresh Parmesan and cream sauce. At £8.95, it represented good value for money.

The dish arrived in good time and was praiseworthy. The thick al dente pasta luxuriated in the rich and sweet creamy sauce and was hailed a success.

I chose the Moroccan-style Lamb Tagine with almonds, dates, apricots and baby spinach served with fresh coriander and buttered cous cous. It too was good value for money at £11.95.

The dish had been prepared with some skill though it could have been better. The chef’s light touch meant the lamb was succulent and tender. That aside, the tagine did not have the requisite Moroccan seasoning and there was insufficient fruit to balance the meaty lamb.

No matter, our food was good value, well-cooked and was the antithesis of fancy, high-end cuisine on offer at other restaurants around the town.

One area where Cromwells did excel was in its service. Two waiters, one male and one female, made repeated visits to our table to see if they could be of service. Friendly inquiries were made about our food and regular visits provided us with the opportunity to buy further drinks.

The service was friendly throughout, the male waiter asking whether the music was too loud or if we’d like him to choose a different CD. We were impressed.

Enjoying the space that Cromwells provided, we lingered long before I decided to sample the desserts. After much toing and froing I opted for the home made sticky toffee pudding with a butterscotch sauce and clotted cream. It was a treat. The dessert was moist and stodgy while the sauce was a buttery treat. The portion was so generous that it ended up being shared by the two of us.

After coffee and a long, luxurious chat we collected a bill which, including wine and soft drinks, came to an entirely respectable £34.

Cromwells is a much-loved perennial on Shropshire’s culinary scene. It doesn’t aspire to greatness, though it does serve food of a good-ish standard in convivial surrounds.

It makes good use of local and seasonal produce. The butternut squash was delicious and there were plenty of alternatives featuring fresh local ingredients from suppliers based in or around Shrewsbury.

Cromwells sits in the maze of Shrewsbury’s medieval streets, amid Housman’s steepled vision, and is a good year-round destination.

Diners can choose between the lively bar, atmospheric oak-panelled restaurant and buzzing walled patio.

The menu features fine seasonal cuisine with inspirational dishes that make the most of traditionally-produced local ingredients.

If you’re looking for decent quality honest-to-goodness food in pleasant settings you could do far worse than visit Cromwells.

By Andy Richardson

ADDRESS:
Cromwells Hotel and Wine Bar, Dogpole, Shrewsbury
Telephone 01743 361440

MENU SAMPLE:
Starters:
Fresh soup (£3.75), Cornish mussels (£8.75).

Main courses:
Fillet of salmon (£10.95), Corn-fed chicken (£11.95)

Sides:
Potato wedges (£3.50)

Desserts:
Chocolate torte with cherries (£4.25)

ATMOSPHERE:
Classic and comfortable

SERVICE:
A real delight. Staff are immensely friendly and very informal. First class.

DISABLED FACILITIES:
No disabled toilets. Otherwise easy access.

SMOKING POLICY:
Smoking in wine bar.