Blog: Greek crisis seems a world away from Kefalonia
Tuesday 4th October 2011, 9:41AM BST.
Former Shropshire man Colin Dodd writes about life in Greece, where he has lived for the past 10 years.
Blog: Hello everyone from the Ionian island of Kefalonia, in the same country as Athens for sure, but in the current financial crisis we seem to be in a different world. More on that later though.
We’re into October now, and the tourist numbers are, predictably, falling. Overall, the July tourist revenue figures were up by 17 per cent in Greece compared to last year. Kefalonia appeared to do quite well. I say appeared as the two villages close to me, Skala and Katelios, are very small, and they are somewhat over-populated with tavernas and restaurants. When you walk past you see that many do not have full tables. But if you take all the people out eating and drinking, then the numbers are quite good.
This over-population is not so good for the owners, but is a positive for the customer as competition is fierce. The place I frequent, in Katelios, Jerry’s Elliniko, had a very good season, but he has kept his prices the same for four years now, without reducing the meal size or quality, and his policy has paid off. I had two friends over for their first visit and they loved the place. They never thought about going elsewhere.
The weather is, thankfully, cooling down somewhat now. September is usually hit and miss weather wise; cooler, some rain and cloudy, but this year it was scorching, up to 50 in the sun. My friends had a brilliant week.
The roads are getting quieter too, not so many hire cars and scooters around. We had the usual tourist mishaps, people falling off scooters, cars crashing etc, but thankfully nothing serious. People do not realise how slippy the roads are here, even in the dry, and when they are wet they are lethal. The hire companies do point this out, but some folk think they know better. They soon learn. Anyone coming next year take heed: drive slowly, it’s better to be 10 mins late in this life than 20 years early in the next.
Meanwhile, we have the ongoing saga of the debt. More bailouts are needed, there will be more disruption, more political in-fighting, more Government promises (it should be a good year for mushrooms).
The general consensus is that Greece will HAVE to default. With the debt level at 160 per cent of the gross domestic product, default is looking inevitable.
The talk is of an orderly default, which would allow Greece to regenerate in the future, but when the Government says Greece is solvent, we can work our way out of this, well, that is more mushroom fodder. The debt is too high, the austerity measures are taking too long to implement, the public opposition to said measures is still delaying things, and some of the measures proposed to re-structure the public employment sector are, apparently, open to legal challenge. The Government is like a toothless tiger in all this.
So they have decide to impose a new wealth tax, to show the man in the street that they are not out to “comfort the comfortable” (their words).
The deputy Prime Minister has publicly said that he cannot afford to pay this tax, and he is on a documented income of 600,000 euros per year, and has ownership of 60 properties throughout Greece. He stated that he cannot afford the tax imposed, and that the finance minister was welcome to go and arrest him when he didn’t pay. If he can’t afford it, who can? For sure, not the average self-employed builder, trucker etc etc.
So things rumble on, yet here on Kef it seems to pass us by somehow. Yes, eventually the measures will come into being, but I’m convinced that Kefalonia will carry on as before. The Kefalonians seem to be adept at doing their own thing, regardless of what happens on the mainland. I hope this will be the case, but time will tell.
I hope you’re all enjoying the mini heat wave in the UK, make the most of it.
End of season greetings from Kef.
All the best,
Colin
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Hello,
I was wondering if you could tell me the cost of living for a typical week? I am trying to find this out because I want to be able to compare it to the UK.
The national average salary in the UK is roughly equivalent to 20,000 euros before tax, and people can (just about) get by when considering the cost of living in the UK…
Thanks.
Uplah
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thanks from kef, i wonder if those little resurants drclare all there taxes.
as for uplah, average salary in the uk is 20k euro’s dream on more like 12k,
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Uplah. I live on the basic state pension. I pay rent, eat, a few drinks, run a small car and I manage nicely, not a life of luxury but I have a nice relaxed lifestyle and always manage to have a few bob left over at the end of each month. My yearly income is circa 12,000 euros, depending on the exchange rate fluctuating.
Philip–yes they do declare. The tax inspectors make random visits, and if they find any discrepancies, they have the power to order the restaurant to close. They also have to pay the IKA, (Greek national insurance), for their employees. The IKA office too have random visits, and the penalties for NOT paying are harsh.
Having said that, there are one or two who still fiddle, but when the tax/IKA inspectors are around, the news soon spreads on the grapevine, and these dodgers rush round giving their customers receipts. It’s a way of life for most Greeks, these guys you will NEVER change.
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Hi Colin
My wife & I love Kef, we were regular holiday visitors before our kids came along and although returned to Skala when they were young the lure of Disney was strong! We however still want to return.
Is there much of an ex-pat community through the winter to keep the local economy ticking over?
With so many ‘locals’ flying back to the mainland at the end of the season we were told stories of areas turning to ghost towns once they and the tourists had gone!
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There is a strong expat community on Kef, especially in the area I live in, Skala, Katelios, Mavrata, Chionata and Valeriano.
There is a Greek owned Taverna in Mavrata that is open all year round. In the winter, the Brits go there a lot. I walked in one night, about 8ish, and counted 18 Brits there. So yes, there are enough of us to keep things ticking over. Even without the expat presence, a good night out is still very attainable. When I lived in Mavrata, I was next door to one of the traditional Greek cafeneons, a shop cum bar. The lady owner spoke very little English, so I used to take my beer from the cooler, save the tops, then give them to her at the end of the night, she counted them and charged me accordingly. That’s the kind of trust they put in us.
Even in that place, I could be the only Brit there, but I used to spend the night talking to some of the local guys, a hell of a lot speak English. They helped me with some Greek and I returned the favour. A good spirit.
Obviously the resorts do tend to die in winter, but there are always a couple of bars open in Skala and a restaurant. Katelios has a bar that opens 2 or 3 nights a week, and that’s about it. Many people come here to work the summer then go home, but those remaining far outnumber them.
I hope I’ve answered your question, and thank you for your interest. Maybe see you next year, I could be persuaded to buy you a beer even.
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