Jugs, Llansantffraid

Reviewer’s rating: *****

Neil Thomas is relieved to discover the rumours were false and that the business is flourishing.

An unhappy by-product of this recession appears to be the damaging rumour. It is born of the economic gloom sweeping the nation and flourishes in a climate of business collapse, job loss and home repossession.

The hospitality trade is notoriously at the mercy of market forces at the best of times - and these scarcely constitute the best of times.

A paranoia about impending penury means more and more people are watching what they spend. They think twice about splashing out on treats they can live without - and among those, I guess, are restaurant meals.

Eighty quid for a decent dinner for two with wine represents pretty good value in times of plenty but when you are struggling to pay an inflated gas bill…?

In this environment ill-tidings have an air of credibility. So when someone tells you one of your favourite restaurants has closed, you are saddened but not surprised. Such was the rumour that reached me about Jugs.

Now some canny businesspeople, with an eye to the main chance, will contact newspapers and claim such false rumours are doing the rounds and damaging trade. They hope for a story quashing the rumour - and providing a little free publicity to boot.

Long-in-the-tooth hacks are generally wise to this ploy. However, the rumour that Jugs had closed was told to me totally independently, as an aside but with such authority that I never doubted its veracity.

When I contacted Jugs to both commiserate and follow up the story, it was to be told the gossip was totally unfounded.

Owner Norman Rose might have paraphrased author Mark Twain who, countering rumours he was about to pop his clogs, wrote in the New York Journal: ‘The report of my death is exaggerated’.

With no story to write about the demise of Jugs, I did the next best thing and booked a table.

I was delighted to discover that not only is the restaurant still alive but in the best of health, too. This is good news because Jugs is up there with the best restaurants in Shropshire and Mid Wales.

The food is superb and Norman Rose a flamboyant and entertaining host, mingling easily with his guests and dispensing bonhomie in abundance.

He has seen a little of the world in his time and picked up a few recipes along the way. That included 15 years in Elat, an Israeli port on the Gulf of Aqaba and an arm of the Red Sea, where he was able to indulge his love of seafood.

Simon Hough, head chef for the past three years, also has much to do with Jugs’ success. He was classically trained and learnt his trade in rosette restaurants including a Michelin-starred establishment in Oxford.

Fish is his passion and fusion dishes his speciality and he served up a treat on the evening I visited with wife Vanessa.

My delicious blue cheese souffle starter (£5.75) displayed a lightness of touch in flavour and presentation, while Vanessa’s king prawns (£7.95) were served in a tempura batter that was light and crisp.

My seabass (£17.95) was a perfect illustration of one of Jugs’ strengths - its wonderful offering of fish dishes. Vanessa loves her seafood and this is one of the best places in the region to eat it - so naturally she chose steak (£17.95). This, though, is another Jugs’ speciality, 21 day matured beef, wonderfully tender, which she chose with a Diane sauce.

Portions are on the generous side though that did not stop me from ordering dessert. My sticky toffee pudding (£4.50) was calorie-laden bliss.

There is a decent wine choice available and we went with one of Norman’s suggestions, a New Zealand sauvignon blanc, that was crisp, fruity and a perfect accompaniment to my fish. Vanessa, our nominated driver for the evening, hit the water.

We rounded off our meal with excellent fresh ground coffee and mints.

Norman Rose lacks nothing in ambition for Jugs and has pumped £150,000 into refurbishing the 70-seater restaurant. The interior has been thoroughly modernised, with new tables and chairs.

The chic dark leather and wood provides a streamlined, minimalist feel that would not look out of place among London’s fashionable restaurants.

Then there is the collection of 4,200-plus pottery jugs, built up by the previous owners (well, how did you think the restaurant got its name?).

They are everywhere, hanging from the ceilings and lining the walls. They must be a nightmare to dust. They are certainly a talking point and so Norman is naturally loathe to remove them.

If he did, he’d probably have to change the name and run the risk of altering a successful brand. One that is very definitely still open for business. . .

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Smoked haddock & mussel chowder with cheese on toast (£5.95)

Mosaic of local game with chutney and toasted brioche (£6.25)

Main courses

Seared duck breast, sauteed peas, bacon and carrots, potato rosti and red wine jus (£15.95)

Tandori halibut and king prawns with pak choi, bean sprouts, new potatoes, garlic and ginger broth (£18.95)

Desserts

Honey and lime cheesecake (£4.50); brioche and apricot pudding (£4.50)

ATMOSPHERE

Lively, warm and inviting

SERVICE

Excellent. Friendly and attentive

DISABLED FACILITIES

Wide access and helpful staff

Contact

Jugs Restaurant, Llansantffraid, Powys. Tel: 01691 828324