Prezzo, Oswestry

Reviewer’s rating: ***

A town apparently knows it has arrived when certain large multiples start setting up shop or opening there.

Now I certainly don’t want Oswestry to look like every other High Street in Britain and thankfully the market town still has enough family-run, independent stores to make it stand out from the rest.

But it has been noticeable over recent years that top names think Oswestry has something going for it.

From big name coffee shops and hair salons to the ultimate tribute to the town – the arrival of an M&S Simply Food store – there has been a swing to prestigious names in the town.

The latest chain to open in Oswestry is the restaurant Prezzo. And I have to admit to a certain reluctance when it was suggested that a friend and I take a mutual and dear friend there before he left his job in the town.

A very modern frontage on Church Street, given an award by Oswestry Civic Society this year, gave way to something of a Tardis when we walked in.

I remembered the toy shop there before it as quite a small shop. But Prezzo’s not only has tables in the window but the restaurant stretches back through a narrow intimate area before opening out into a lovely airy dining area complete with an atrium and large pizza oven.

The restaurant has a vast menu, which is always a problem for me.

We decided to share a bowl of olives (£2.45) instead of a starter and moved onto choosing our mains. Paul went for arrosto insalade.

Goats’ cheese and plum tomatoes baked on focaccia bread with roasted peppers, caramelised balsamic onions, artichoke hearts, cucumber, cherry tomatoes, marinated olives and mixed leaves, for £8.50.

Sue chose crespolina porcini, rolled crepes filled with mushrooms and ricotta, cooked with parmesan and field mushrooms in a cream sauce for £8.75.

Meanwhile I chose spaghetti con mazzancolle: crayfish tails, petit pois and garlic in a light cream and saffron sauce, £8.50, something sadly I was to later regret.

The olives were soon with us, an assortment of deliciously plump olives with the very quaffable bottle of red that Paul chose.

When the main courses arrive Paul was delighted with his salad. Its centrepiece, a continental take on cheese on toast, and the salad included tasty caramelised red onions and artichokes.

Sue, who said she never has mushrooms at home because no-one else likes them, enjoyed her main course.

But sadly I was disappointed.

The percentage of crayfish and sauce to the spaghetti was lamentable. I don’t know what I expected but I certainly could not taste the saffron and would personally have preferred much more sauce.

The side salad I had ordered at least gave some substance to a very plain looking course.

I was impressed with the small touches, like the frosted glasses that came with our water – although we did have to stress we wanted tap and not bottled water that was immediately offered.

I was the only one who went for a pudding, not wanting to pass up the opportunity to try tiramisu.

It was lovely, but with Paul and Sue both asking for spoons, there were only a couple of mouthfuls each!

All too soon it was time to leave and I did so with mixed feelings.

There are many things that make a good meal and while the food was tasty and good value for money – despite my mistake in my choice of course – it still had the air of a chain.

Now I am not knocking chains and they are brilliant for knowing the standard that you are going to get, especially when visiting a different part of the country.

But there was not the atmosphere of an independently run establishment although to be fair, perhaps the atmosphere will build as Prezzo finds its feet in Oswestry.

By Sue Austin

MINI GUIDE

Sample starters: Grilled goats’ cheese with plum tomatoes and caramelised balsamic onions on freshly baked focaccia bread, drizzled with a balsamic glaze (£4.85); Crab cakes served with a lime and dill dip (£4.85)

Sample mains: Chargrilled butterflied chicken breast, proscuitto ham and plum tomato slices, baked in the oven with cheese served with fries or gratinated potatoes; Pizza with pepperoni sausage, prosciutto ham, artichoke, field mushrooms, capers, marinated olives, mozzarella, tomato (£8.75); Calzone with chicken, meatballs, mushrooms, chillies bolognese sauce and cheese (£8.95); Salmon salad in a lime and dill dressing (£8.95)

Sides: Garlic roasted new potatoes (£2.95); Garlic bread (£2.55); Garlic pizza break with caramelised balsamic onions and melted mozzarella cheese (£4.95)

Atmosphere: Different atmosphere depending on where you sit

Service: Friendly and prompt

Disabled facilities: Modern renovation so disabled facilities no problem

Contact: Prezzo, 30 Church Street, Oswestry 01691 650932