The Last Inn, Hengoed

Star rating: * * * *

They say good things come to those who wait - and they certainly do at The Last Inn in Hengoed near Oswestry.

After spending a Saturday night at my parents’ house in Oswestry with my brother and his girlfriend, we woke to discover the beautiful smell of the usual Sunday roast was missing.

The parents were away for the weekend and I wasn’t betting on my brother Scott taking on the responsibility of the home-made gravy.

So off to the pub it was. After racking our brains and realising it was gone 1pm already we needed to act sharp, as most places in the Oswestry area only cook until 2pm.

My brother came up with the idea of The Last Inn in the small hamlet of Hengoed.

After hearing about its success since it was bought by building company Jones Brothers and now in the hands of landlord Jeremy Jordan, we thought we had better try and book.

Due to the Sunday lunchtime rush they couldn’t fit us in until 2pm but for us it was perfect - for future reference when you’re having a lazy Sunday, they cook until 4pm.

On arrival we were impressed by the obviously new outdoor patio area which was busy with drinkers and diners enjoying the September sunshine while waiting to be called into the restaurant.

We ordered drinks at the bar and after spotting the blackboard with the Sunday roast on, we ordered meals at the same time.

Scott and I went for the homemade leek and potato soup, which was served piping hot in a large soup bowl with a warm bread roll. It was tasty, obviously homemade and bursting with flavour and texture.

John and Andrea went for the prawn cocktail - again a generous portion with plump, juicy prawns, bigger than the average prawns people usually serve in a pub.

We also enjoyed the sunshine while waiting to be called and noted that we were waiting longer than we would have expected - in fact, we even had time to move inside and back outside and then to the front of the pub to find warmest sun before we were called.

But as I said, good things come to those who wait.

After being pleasantly surprised by the quality and taste of the starters, we hoped the main courses lived up to the same standard. After all, it was only £9.95 for three courses.

Again we had a longer than expected wait between courses but it was worth it.

John’s meal was a generous portion of thickly carved juicy turkey while myself, Scott and Andrea were presented with perfectly cooked roast beef, accompanied by roast potatoes and Yorkshire puddings.

The meats were followed by dishes of steaming hot vegetables, including new potatoes, leeks, carrots, cauliflower and peas.

Separate home-made gravys were also served for the two different meats - bonus. We as a family are forever having to ask for extra gravy while dining out.

Both courses were so far deemed excellent and John even said it verged on the standard as his now mother-in-law’s - brave man!

And onto the desserts, which we had already eyed up - a selection of sweets, hot and cold, with custard, cream or ice-cream.

Andrea and I more than enjoyed the white chocolate, raspberry brulee cheesecake. I’m not a fan of brulee usually but mixed and served as a cheesecake it was beautiful. Full fat, full flavour and fully demolished.

Scott enjoyed his generous portion of warm apple pie topped with custard, while John had the bannoffee roulade (even that was served as huge as my mum does).

We finished off the meal with coffees on the patio. The only criticisms would be some soft background music would be nice in the restaurant and a little more room between tables.

I have since learned that our meals were cooked by the landlord himself and the meals cooked the following week, enjoyed by my brother, friends and parents, were by the chef who has since left.

Our advice is Jeremy should take on the chef’s role himself because it was very impressive and, at £9.95 for three courses, fantastic value for money.

No wonder the locals were breathing a sigh of relief when they found out it was staying as the village pub and not being bulldozed, as was feared when a building company bought the premises.

By Kirsty Smallman

MENU SAMPLE

Starters: Breaded mushrooms with garlic mayonnaise (£3.95); soup of the day (£2.95); pate served with melba toast (£3.95).

Mains: 10 oz sirloin steak served with mushrooms, grilled tomatoes and onion rings (£7.95); Lamb shank with mint and redcurrant gravy (£7.95); Cauliflower and broccoli gratin (£5.50)

Sides: Homemade steak sauces including hot peppercorn, mushroom or whiskey and mustard all £1.25

Desserts: Selection including a special of the day.

ATMOSPHERE

Welcoming and relaxed.

SERVICE

Professional but friendly.

DISABLED FACILITIES

Disabled access to the bar and dining room, and outdoor patio area can be accessed via the back to avoid some steps.

CONTACT

The Last Inn, Hengoed, nr Oswestry SY10 7EU. Telephone (01691) 659747 or visit www.thelastinn.net