Star rating: *****
When I heard Jamie Bailey was now working his culinary magic at Bridgnorth I was confident that my wife and I would have an evening out to remember - and we were not disappointed.
Jamie and partner Louise took over the running of the Swan at Knowle Sands three weeks ago. They hit the ground running because this award-winning chef knows his onions, and his shallots and just about everything else required to make a meal appeal.
I was able to enjoy his cooking four years ago when he opened Bailey’s Bistro in Cleobury Mortimer and quickly built up a reputation for tasty and imaginative meals.
Since then he has “moved around the country” but was keen to return to Shropshire.
The Swan has been given a quick makeover but the menu has been given the innovative and imaginative Jamie Bailey treatment.
Sensibly there are still the old faithfuls available, with starters like soup, or pate or garlic mushrooms but thankfully something a little bit bolder, like Thai salmon and prawn fishcakes. Then there’s the baked Swiss eggs (£4.50) which I ordered, partly out of curiosity. It was bliss.
But first we were treated to an extra delight in the shape of Jamie’s trademark, home-baked, split white-and-brown bread rolls, served hot, with pots of tasty garlic and herb butter with an oil and balsamic vinegar dip.
It was heavenly, and I fought off the waitress as she tried to clear away some large crumbs - they were worth scooping up.
It had quickly developed into a relaxing, comfortable Friday night out and we hadn’t got to the starters yet.
I don’t remember coming across Swiss eggs before. It was a little like eggs Florentine, only better, much, much better.
An over-size, scorching hot ramekin dish held the large, soft-baked egg in a glorious Gruyere cheese and smoked bacon sauce with cream and a bit of spinach with a rocket salad. I dipped my part-toasted, crusty French bread in the yolk and enjoyed the superior equivalent of toast soldiers and a boiled egg. Masterful, and only £4.50.
Libby ordered the deep-fried Brie (no real surprise there) at £4.25. The chunks came wrapped in filo pastry and were served with a raspberry and rosemary compote and salad garnish.
The parcels were delicate and crispy with soft, creamy Brie and then the tartiness of the compote combined into a “wow” in the back of the mouth.
This was convivial, indulgent and unfussy dining. The views of the Severn Valley and The Hermitage from the “wrap-around” conservatory are excellent with only the aluminium works spoiling the horizon (that and the false diamond-leaded effect on the ceiling-high windows).
The vast interior at the Swan has lots of higgledy, piggledy spaces and sitting areas. There are dark wood tables and dark wood platters, straight-backed, contemporary styled chairs - I would gladly sit on a bale of straw in a garden shed to eat food this good.
Would the mains give reason to cut back on the five-star rating? Not a chance. I’m a lamb fan and I saw that Keith Alderson at Bridgnorth supplied all the meat so I was happy that the sheep’s carbon footprints did not stretch to New Zealand.
Jamie’s braised spring lamb shank came with vegetables, roasted garlic potatoes in a red currant and red wine jus with (yes) a mint jus (£10.95). I say yes because I am a mint fan - apparently some people say it detracts from the meat!
It went well with a most enjoyable bottle of Oakwood Shiraz Cabernet, a soft red Australian wine at £10.95.
More praise from Libby for her Cajun beef sizzler from the specials board (£11.75 including chips). Lovely tender strips of beef delicately enhanced with the Cajun flavourings and seasonings, thin strips of crunchy green, red and yellow peppers. What more could you ask? Well, yes, perfect chips. We shared a side bowl with excellent, thick, golden brown chips.
But we didn’t stop there. Jamie’s desserts are legendary so Libby tried the Eton mess with Chantilly cream (£3.95). “It was brilliant, good enough to turn me from a creme brulee fan into an Eton mess fan,” she said.
I had apple and toffee crumble with custard (£3.95) and not only was it very good, it was a very big bowl. The way to a man’s heart is… with a good custard pudding.
So five stars it is then.
By Rex M Key
MENU SAMPLE
Starters: Garlic mushroom crostinis (£4.50); chicken liver pate with red onion and black cherry chutney and toasted bread (£4.50)
Main courses: Seared pork fillet with apricot, ricotta and spinach, wrapped in pancetta and served with mustard mash and Madeira sauce (£10.95); beer battered cod with chips and salad (£8.25)
Sides: Garlic bread (£2); Chips (£2)
Desserts: Chocolate orange brulee (£3.95); Rum and raisin cheesecake (£3.95)
Atmosphere: Relaxed and unrushed, helped by the subdued lighting, candles and fresh flowers
Service: Excellent. Waiting staff efficient and friendly
Disabled facilities: Wheelchair access possible with only small changes of levels
Smoking policy: There is a pleasant patio area with sun/rain parasols
Contact: The Swan, Knowle Sands, Bridgnorth. Telephone (01746) 763424
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