The Clock Tower, Donnington

Star Rating: ****

Sometimes, I will have pre-conceptions about a pub or restaurant. Often, this is based on little more than passing knowledge, or perhaps a past visit.

That was certainly the case at the Clock Tower in Telford, where I had eaten a number of years ago.

Then, it was very much a typical ‘family pub’ - good grub, but much not too much in the way of style or substance.

But 18 months ago, it went through a huge transformation - and as my wife Claire and I discovered - it has been for the better.

Low-level lighting, comfy nooks and crannies, plus a menu that springs more than a few welcome surprises.

The Clock Tower is not a classic in terms of gastropubs, but it certainly goes a long way towards bridging that gap.

It is, however, always a risk that pubs attempting to enter the higher end of the market get it clumsily wrong with the staff. But those on duty during our visit had their feet firmly on the ground. No pretensions here, thank you very much.

To begin the meal, I plumped for the duck pate, while Claire went for the pea and ham soup.

There are a few ways that a pate can actually go wrong and that was certainly the case with my opening dish.

I must, however, confess to a little confusion at first - the butter topping on the pate left me searching my plate. Could I have been given the wrong dish?

Nope, there was just a rather red face as I realised I hadn’t been given a bowl of butter.

Once the topping had been broken, I was given my reward - a delicious pate that certainly surpassed the quality available at most other pubs in the locality.

Bearing in mind I had walked through the doors expecting to find non-stop gammon, burgers and chips this was a cracking start to my meal.

Over at the other side of the table, Claire had been handed a virtually endless supply of rolls as she worked her way through the pea and ham soup.

There are few dishes that Claire will try for the first time without protest, but this fitted the bill perfectly.

Thankfully, there were few chunks or blobs - ‘technical terms’ we both use when attempting to rate food - and little else to detract from the superb combination of flavours.

The highlight of our meal, however, was undoubtedly provided by the main course.

I kept up the pate theme by choosing the steak rossini - essentially, a steak fillet topped with all sorts of lovely delights, including chicken liver patŽ. It was cooked with my demands for a ‘rare’ strictly followed, and had all the hallmarks of a classic.

In fact, I was so focused on the central theme that the side vegetables and accompaniments were given very little attention.

Claire’s sausage and mash combination was also a real eye-grabber. So often, sausages can teeter on the edge of burnt or raw and have very little appeal.

But on this occasion, they had a most delicious flavour and demanded her full focus.

The mash, meanwhile, proved to be worthy, but again suffered from being the less illustrious relative.

Admittedly, Claire was a little disappointed by the over-use of onions in the gravy, but then again, it is hard to account for personal tastes.

The desserts, however, were not an option - with Claire now eating for two, space for her is now at a premium.

Certainly, the changes that were made just over 18 months ago have transformed the Clock Tower.

And while the food may not touch the heights of the very best in the trade, it is, nevertheless, a huge attraction.

By James Shaw

PUB GUIDE:

Starters: Sharing platter (£6.99); Warm whole brie (£3.99)

Main courses: Pork belly (£9.99); Roasted vegetable and goats cheese tart (£7.99)

Desserts: Ultimate sharing sundae (£4.99); Lemon tart (£3.75)

Atmosphere: The restaurant’s nooks, crannies and open fires added to a relaxed and secluded atmosphere.

Service: Friendly and attentive, with staff that were more than willing to explain the dishes.

Disabled facilities: There are disabled toilet facilities and the entire pub is on one level.

Contact: The Clock Tower, Donnington Way, Telford TF2 8LE. Telephone (01952) 677568.