Curshaws at the Park, Whitchurch

Star Rating: ***

On previous visits, Whitchurch has struck me as a nice but quiet and somewhat sleepy town.

My partner, Debbie, and I have had mixed results when eating out there. One meal in particular was not very nice and the service was definitely quiet and sleepy.

But hearing of a newer, trendier venue in the town we decided to give it a go.

Treating ourselves to a pick-me-up meal out at the end of a long and busy week, Curshaws at the Park in Whitchurch seemed just the job.

One of three in the Curshaws chain - the others are in Nantwich and Sandbach - the Park Avenue hotel is billed as a “cafe, bar, eaterie” and strikes a chic note at the edge of the town park in an area which is under some development, with smart new flats on one side of the road and further building about to get under way on the other side.

The venue itself is an old mill, dating from 1828 and transformed with the addition of a glass and steel atrium into a thoroughly modern looking building.

We arrived shortly after 6pm, not surprised that it was not yet busy but grateful because we had almost a full choice of where to sit in the upstairs dining area.

There was the main, smart, modern covered area, two intimate “pods” - cosy cubbies where small parties can dine in virtual privacy - and then the atrium area, which is almost outdoor dining but without the threat of rain stopping play.

Debs and I decided on the cool, bright and airy atrium and chose a table for two overlooking the edge of the park and the town’s bowling club.

There is an alleyway alongside the car park which, unfortunately was somewhat litter-strewn. Now I know it’s not Curshaws’ responsibility but it did strike me that it would certainly help their image if they organised a regular clean up of what was an unfortunate eyesore.

A small gripe, I know, but when you’re out for a romantic meal you don’t really want to have to see cans, bottles and bags lying around.

Because we had already checked out the menu at the Curshaws website we didn’t waste long making up our minds as we enjoyed a couple of pints (JW Leese bitter at £2.25 and a Hoegaarden at £3.50) and decided to share a selection of “tapas”. In truth this wasn’t really a full Spanish-style event but was very nice nonethless.

We decided to share a warm Camembert (£7) which came with a selection of sliced ciabbata, carrot, celery and cucumber for dipping. The crudites were thick, fresh and crunchy and the only problem was dipping into the deliciously creamy cheese before it began to set.

For a bit of added flavour, Debs also had king marinated prawn skewers (£3.50) helpfully marked as a “healthy option” for the diet-conscious. She said they were definitely cooked from fresh, raw prawns and although not particularly juicy were very tasy and delicately spiced.

I helped myself to sauteed mushrooms with garlic butter and balsamic syrup, also helpfully marked (for me) as vegetarian. The mushrooms were tender and very juicy indeed and came served with a small, crisp salad covered in the tangiest of balsamic syrups.

As we waited for our mains to arrive we soaked up the atmosphere which was starting to hot up. There were more guests at tables by now and a warm, friendly chatter made its way up the stairs from the bar area below.

Curshaws seems to be a magnet for the smart over-25 set as we observed from our lofty vantage point.

For my main course I went for the sizzling vegetable fajitas ( £9, and there are also chicken, £11.50, and beef fajitas, £12.50, on the menu). There were four floured tortillas and a selection of dips, a tomato salsa, soured cream and grated mozerella, plus a salad with more of that balsamic syrup.

But the real star of the show was the noisily sizzling platter of red, yellow and green peppers, spring onion, red onion, mushrooms and lime with which to stuff the tortillas.

It all got a bit messy and dripping as I created my fajitas… but it was well worth it, they were hot, spicy, bursting with flavour and very filling too. Mind you, I was probably full because I also had a side portion of rustic, thick cut chips (£1.95) which came with their skins still on and were chunky and satisfying.

Debs, however, had mixed feelings about her main course of oven-baked halibut steak, served with a white wine and mussels cream with new potatoes and asparagus spears.

She said she was a bit disappointed with the halibut. It was quite dry and of little flavour, where usually halibut is creamy tasting and tender. But she was in raptures over the accompanying piquant hollandaise-style sauce with mussels. It was, she reported, “divine”.

We finished off with strawberry creme brulee (£4.50) as a “final fling” as the menu has it. This was a wonderfully smooth concoction, with the requisite caramelised top and served with a nice big sliced strawberry and luxurious shortbread fingers.

There was a nice touch when the bill arrived, it was presented inside a folder which said “Here’s the damage . . .” It raised a smile anyway and luckily the bill inside didn’t induce a wince - with the addition of a couple more drinks it came to a very reasonable £54.50.

Curshaws, which also has nine hotel rooms and opened in 2007, rewards regular diners with a Gold privilege card which offers discounts from 10 per cent. There are a number of other offers, including cheaper set menus on certain days.

But the one which most caught the eye was a free meal on a Wednesday if your table number matches the national Lottery bonus ball that evening. That really would be hitting the jackpot!

By Ian Harvey

RESTAURANT GUIDE:

Starters: Mussels in tomato sauce (£3.95); Duck spring rolls with plum sauce (£2.95); Olives and bread selection (£3.25)

Main courses: Curshaws paella (£12.95); Griddled beef fillet steak (£17.95); Roasted vegetable curry, saffron rice & naan (£7.95); Griddled tuna steaks on a fried nicoise salad (£9.50)

Sides: Seasonal vegetables (£2.95); Rocket and parmesan salad with dressing (£3.50)

Desserts: Baked Mars bar cheesecake (£4.50); Lemon meringue sundae (£4.50)

Atmosphere: We went straight after work when it was quiet but by the time we left it was buzzing.

Service: Polite, friendly and attentive.

Disabled facilities: The restaurant is on the first floor but disabled customers can eat in the downstairs bar area.

Contact: Curshaws at the Park, Park Avenue, Whitchurch SY13 1AH. Telephone (01948) 663955 or visit the website at www.curshaws.com