Star rating: *****
Every village has its curmudgeons - cantankerous old sticks who resent change and modernisation.
Broseley is no exception and there is a considerable amount of chuntering going on at the moment now that an old-established pub has been transformed into a rather swish restaurant.
The Forester Arms in Avenue Road, recorded in Father Dave’s excellent book, Inns and Alehouses of Broseley, has been quenching the thirsts of hardy Broseley folk since the 1820s.
The new signs outside now proclaim it is the King and Thai - authentic Thai cuisine; although it is nice that it has acknowledged in smaller lettering that it was formerly the Foresters.
It opened four weeks ago having relocated from The Square in Ironbridge where it built up a large and appreciative clientelle over seven years.
Like some of my neighbours I was keen to try it out (and see how much the premises has been altered) so went along on Good Friday. Typical Easter weather: blowing a hooley, single figure temperatures and a light scattering of hail.
When I rang up to book a table I used their old Ironbridge number but a recorded message redirected me. A friendly voice at the King and Thai then took my booking and checked to make sure I was aware of the change of location.
Reserving a table had obviously been a wise move as it soon became apparent the restaurant was going to be busy that night as there were already lots of vehicles in the massive car park.
From the outside the building looks little changed but inside there are plush, comfortable lounge chairs and smart brown and back chairs and tables in the dining areas.
Dan made us feel welcome and supplied the drinks, then the waitress took us to our table. There were fresh flowers on the ledges and fresh orchids on the tables.
The menu offered several soups and half a dozen starters with an additional four vegetarian starters. You could pay more than £6 for the special premier soup but most starters cost less than a fiver.
Libby and I decided to indulge ourselves and share the £12.99 mixed starter for two, the King and Thai House Platter.
It consisted of two large spring rolls cut in half, four prawn bread slices, honey glazed chicken fillets on skewers and pork balls. Wow. They were superb, and came with three tasty dips.
It was a cracking start, and set the tone for the evening. Next I had the beef in oyster sauce (£10.95). Strips of tender beef steak stir fried (of course) with mushrooms, onion and peppers.
Mouth-wateringly good and enhanced by the smooth, subtle oyster sauce. We also shared a plate of egg fried rice (£2.50) and a dish of sugar snap peas, broccoli, peppers and carrots so our appetites were tested to the full.
Everything tasted crisp and fresh; no hint of sogginess or over-cooking. There were lots of flavours and I cannot claim I have recognised them all.
Across the table Libby had Kai Pat Prik King (stir fried chicken with ginger and chilli) at £10.55. It was highly flavoured and the spiciness immediately hit the back of the throat, but not unpleasantly so.
Ginger and chilli and green and red peppers combined is never middle-of-the-road mild, but neither is it eye-wateringly hot. With the ultra-tender and moist chicken and contrastingly cool fried rice it was a winner.
We shared a bottle of red wine, although I cannot remember what it was called, so it obviously put me into a relaxed mood. The wine is priced from £9.50.
So on we pressed without any hesitation at all. Bring out the dessert board and here I noted a more discernible English feel. There was dark chocolate torte, cheesecake, fried ice-cream…ah, FRIED ICE-CREAM!
Yes really. I’m a bit ashamed I did not try it, choosing instead one of my favourites, Bailey’s cheesecake.
Libby went for the sorbet and berries in a brandysnap basket. They were excellent and well worth the £4.99 each.
Finish off the wine, enjoy the tasty coffee (which came with a biscotti for an Italian touch) and reflect on a comfortable and satisfying evening.
Some will, quite rightly, regret the passing of a traditional ale, dominoes and rifle-shooting local, but few old time pubs can survive on beer and crisps alone.
Simon Turner, who describes himself as the general overseer at the King and Thai hopes to welcome many Broseley customers as well as keeping many of the patrons from “across the river”.
“We have got a lot to do here yet,” he explained, “with the old bar awaiting a total revamp. And we haven’t touched the car park or gardens yet. By moving here we have doubled the size of the restaurant and now have plenty of space for people to relax in. We have tried to achieve a homely feel.”
The powerhouse of the operation is in the kitchen where sisters Suree and Nit (correct) bring their Thai skills into play. They source the meat locally but the stunning Thai cuisine is brought to life by the herbs, spices and vegetables, many of which are flown in weekly from Thailand.
Simon pointed out that customers with special dietary requirements or allergies can easily be catered for.
This weekend the restaurant extends its opening hours for Sunday lunches which initially be a buffet style with various sittings between noon and 5pm.
The old Foresters Arms may have gone and no doubt some chuntering will continue but it least they haven’t painted the outside of the building in a garish and tasteless yellow, unlike another establishment in the village.
By Rex M Key
MENU SAMPLE
Starters: Kamum Bang Na Goong (marinated prawn on toast with sweet and sour sauce) £4.99; Greo Grob (Thai spring roll) £4.90
Main courses: Pad Thai (stir fried Thai style noodles with beansprouts and peanuts) £7.95; Sweet and sour fish with vegetables (£12.90)
Sides: Steamed rice (£2.20)
Desserts: Fried ice-cream with mango colis (£4.99); Dark chocolate orange torte (£4.99)
ATMOSPHERE: Relaxed and informal, bordering on the lively but with unobtrusive background music.
Service: Very good. Waitresses were attentive and explained speciality dishes
Disabled facilities: Excellent facilities for the disabled with ramps, room to manoeuvre and dedicated toilets
Contact: The King and Thai, Avenue Road, Broseley (01952) 882004
One Comment
sounds suspiciously like Chinese food to me.