The Bradford Arms, Llanymynech

Star rating: * * * *

You never really appreciate what’s right on your doorstep, sometimes driving for miles and miles in a quest for a good evening out, but I decided to stay close to home and spend my Saturday night at a restaurant in the village next to my own.

On arrival at the Bradford Arms Hotel in Llanymynech, my mum and I were glad we had booked, for the restaurant was completely packed and there were no spare tables at all. However, we were shown to our table, and pleased to be seated in a cosy corner, intimate enough to be private, but with enough of an atmosphere.

The restaurant was pleasantly decorated and the tables fully laid out with shining cutlery and neatly folded napkins, but I only wished we had asked for a table in the conservatory; I had a quick glance as I walked past and with the large windows showing the night sky and the pleasant lighting, it looked really cosy.

The restaurant and conservatory were also quite spacious, perhaps owing to the fact the premises has stood since the late 17th century, when it was a coaching inn. The hotel was ‘Victorianised’ in the 1900s when it became part of the Earl of Bradford’s estate, and now offers space and modern luxury.

My only criticism of the surroundings is the music was a bit dated; perhaps the owners could invest in some more recent songs! However, the background music gave us a giggle, and it could only be heard faintly over the sound of cutlery clinking and the general tones of people having a good time.

There were two other families with children in the restaurant at the same time as us, and other groups, so we were reassured we could bring the younger members of the family for a meal, or recommend the restaurant to couples; the atmosphere would have suited anyone.

When it came to the food, we rarely manage three courses, but there was a huge selection of starters to choose from that we just couldn’t resist.

I opted for deep-fried brie with cranberry sauce, which satisfied my sweet tooth, and my mum chose p‰tŽ-stuffed mushrooms in a tomato-based sauce. Neither of us were disappointed, and as the portions had been light, we still looked forward to devouring our main meals.

The main menu was also varied, with plenty of fish, chicken, meat and vegetarian dishes, as well as about half a dozen types of burger; there really was something for everyone, so again I made a mental note to return with the rest of the family.

I’m not a huge fan of red meat, but I decided to try something different and went for the beef stroganoff. The meat was tender, and the sauce was really delicious, with plenty of peppers to add extra flavour and colour. The meal arrived with rice, but when I explained I had actually asked for noodles, changing was not a problem.

My mum opted for a fillet of salmon in a white-wine sauce, accompanied by vegetables, potatoes and homemade chips, something of a rarity in many restaurants. She was delighted with her meal, being a salmon lover.

The vegetables and potatoes were so plentiful that I indulged and had a few potatoes with my meal too.

The service was really prompt, and when I asked for drinks during the meal the waiter practically flew back to the table within about 30 seconds, with chilled drinks on a tray.

I never say no to dessert, and when our final courses arrived I was pleased to see they looked rich and were attractively presented, but were in light portions - so we could enjoy the meal while still fitting through the door afterwards!

I opted for my cake-shop favourite - millionaire shortbread - although I’m sure that the next time I have the tray-bake variety I will be disappointed; there was just the right amount of caramel and a rich shortbread base. It came with ice cream, and a pretty berry and leaves.

My mum chose a raspberry-based meringue pudding, which again satisfied her sweet tooth but was light enough for her to enjoy.

At the end of our meal, my mum enjoyed a coffee and I had another drink, but we did feel that a chocolate or mint with the coffee, or with the bill, would have been a nice touch to an otherwise almost perfect meal.

We were also surprised to see a cat stroll into the restaurant just as we were getting ready to leave. Being a cat lover, I didn’t mind in the least, although I did spare a thought for the other diners, who may have had allergies, or disliked animals.

Overall, we were delighted with the service, the food and the pleasant surroundings, and I am already planning a return visit.

Having checked out the hotel part of the premises online, I would also love to stay in one of the hotel rooms, but living less than a mile down the road hardly warrants a hotel stay!

However, I would not hesitate to recommend the hotel to family members coming to Shropshire to stay, and with the picturesqe Llanymynech hills in the background, I can imagine it would be an idyllic place to stay.

By Abigail Bates

MENU SAMPLE:

Starters: Fan of melon (£3.95); Homemade chicken liver pate (£3.95)

Main courses: Hawaiian chicken (£9.95); Mexican vegetable basket (£8.50)

Desserts: Sticky toffee pudding (£3.50); Lemon meringue pie (£3.50)

ATMOSPHERE: Busy, not a spare table in sight! The restaurant is suitable for families, couples and groups. The music was slightly old fashioned, though.

SERVICE: Polite, friendly and incredibly prompt.

DISABLED FACILITIES: Plenty of space to manoeuvre, and staff were willing to help.

CONTACT: The Bradford Arms, Llanymynech SY22 6EJ. Telephone (01691) 830582