The Red Barn, Shrewsbury

Star rating: *** 

Few eating places, it seems, remain substantially unchanged for more than a few months. The Red Barn, however, has been a familiar and welcoming sight “on the road into town” for as long as I can remember - and that is about 55 years.

It is situated between the traffic island and the speed camera in Longden Road, so slow down while you are looking for it.

It has got plenty of free parking and that’s a distinct plus when you are getting near Shrewsbury town centre.

With the logistics out of the way, you can then step inside where the warm informality and casualness of this unpretentious pub mean that you don’t feel self-conscious in either smart clothes or working gear.

While we were there a steady stream of regulars shuffled in and made their presence known. Another visitor then volunteered: “I’m not a regular dropper-in but I know I can park and get a good pint, so this place suits me.” That summed it up really.

Red Barn prices are sensible; in fact they could be said to be on the cheap end of sensible, with starters ranging from the home-made soup of the day with chunky bread at £2.50.

It has quite a comprehensive menu, outlined in a thick folder of choices, and even more choices on the chef’s specials chalkboard. There were old favourites, with quite a few sounding tempting, as did quite a few slightly unusual offerings. Children’s meals from £3.95 are available.

We spent some time on our selection with Libby asking for brie wedges with warm redcurrant jelly (£3.95), and I chose the tuna and mozzarella fishcake (£3.50).

Having eventually made our minds up I went to the bar to place our order, hand over my money and remembered to ask for a VAT receipt as the Shropshire Star expects all the paperwork to be in order before I am reimbursed - I’m not an MP after all, so not a lot goes on trust.

It wasn’t long before our starters were ready and we were shown to a quiet table in a corner where we could mentally dissect the food, make judgements and scribble notes without being rumbled.

My tuna fishcake was a generous size, very hot and with a tasty, crunchy coating. Personally I would have liked a bit more

spicing-up, although I suspect this may now be down to my palate losing its sensitivity as I get older. Perhaps a tartare or garlic dip would have helped. The salad accompaniment was fresh and crisp.

The brie wedges chosen by Libby (one of her favourites) did not disappoint. They came with a pleasant redcurrant sauce which, she said, was on the runny side and she would have preferred it in a little side ramekin, rather than poured on the plate.

For mains my wife had originally asked for the wild, fresh mushrooms with brandy strudel and brown rice and courgettes (£7.25) as advertised on the chalkboard - but they had sold out (sounds like they had gone down well).

So her second choice was the spicy chilli con carne with nachos and salsa (£6.55). This certainly zinged and was most generously proportioned. There was hardly room on the plate for the half-and-half rice and chips.

A main course meal, with this much flavour and at this price certainly got the vote.

Being an unreconstructed carnivore I went for the eight-ounce slice of sirloin (£9.95). It was expertly cooked, medium rare, and contained no more than a small amount of gristle - quite normal.

I had a side order of pepper sauce (£1.50) the strength of which, I am glad to say, nearly made my eyes water - a very good sign.

The chips were pretty well OK, just a little overcooked, and peas and mushrooms very good. It was only the onion rings which were soft and could perhaps have been cooked at a higher temperature. At less than a tenner I certainly didn’t have any serious grumbles.

The prices generally were very modest - breaded cod and chips for £5.75, chicken breast in chorizo sauce £8.25, luxury fish pie at £8.25, all top favourites which won’t break the bank.

I did not have room to check out the desserts after that but I understand the sticky toffee pudding is very popular.

By Rex M Kay

MENU SAMPLE:

Starters: Garlic bread with melted cheese, soup of the day with homemade chunky bread

Main courses: Hearty mixed grill with steak, gammon, lamb chops, black pudding, mushrooms, tomato, onion rings, pineapple and egg; luxury fish pie

Sides: Stilton sauce, chips

Desserts: Sticky toffee pudding; apple strudel; lemon sponge

ATMOSPHERE: Relaxed and cosy.

Service: Friendly and attentive.

Disabled Facilities: No special facilities but disabled access possible.

CONTACT: The Red Barn, 108 Longden Road, Shrewsbury (01743) 362503