Star rating: *** Reviewers grow used to the slings and arrows of outraged restaurateurs. We come to expect retribution if we dare to criticise those whose idea of high class dining involves a microwave and a frozen Brakes ready meal.
When we offer constructive criticism, restaurant managers tell us never to return, our integrity is called into question and chefs sharpen their knives at the mention of our names. We are a scourge for those who believe mediocrity is acceptable.
But, what reviewers aren’t used to is this: being criticised for offering the highest praise. It is a bizarre twist. But that’s the most recent development.
A January visit with my wife and daughter to an excellent pub in rural Shropshire and a four out of five rating, prompted a letter dripping in venom. The review, it has to be said, was utterly consistent with one written some years earlier. The responding letter - not written, it should be said, by anyone connected with the pub in question - was apoplectic with rage.
So what are we to do? If both bad and good reviews lead to outbursts of letter-writing nastiness, what options remain? Presumably, reviewers fix tin hats to their head before applying pen to paper.
So, before we get into the nitty gritty of this week’s restaurant, the Sheraz, in Shrewsbury - and with my tin hat firmly in place - let me offer the following caveats.
I know no one who works at the Sheraz, in Wyle Cop. I’ve never been offered so much as a free popadum, let alone a brown envelope stuffed with tenners. I’ve visited the restaurant umpteen times and it continues to improve. And in 500 words time, I may even suggest you pop along. It’s really rather good.
My wife and two friends visited the Sheraz on a supremely busy night for a cosy get together. The four of us called in about 8pm and the place was heaving. Families were out for the evening, catching up on the latest gossip. Young couples were enjoying intimate dinners and old friends were swopping jokes and anecdotes. It’s a friendly place, more in keeping with a decent local pub than a fancy dan restaurant.
In many ways, the Sheraz is an archetypal curry house with indifferent interior decoration, tables packed tightly together and humble waiters quickly shifting between tables. There’s nothing fancy about it, which merely adds to its appeal.
It’s easy to wonder why curry house proprietors don’t all club together and book a consultation with Anna Ryder-Richardson or some other design guru. Perhaps they just prefer that down at heel look. To my mind, the Sheraz is a great venue for a no frills curry with friends, which is why we opted to visit.
The menu is extensive and features all of the usual staples, with baltis, curries of different potency and a wide range of chef’s specials. The specials are a treat and in recent times we’ve managed to work our way through most of them.
The desserts, typically, are something of a let down with many apparently pre-made and frozen. Certainly, they don’t measure up to the excellence of starters, mains and sides. There is an abundance of ingredients in South East Asia that could so easily be used in imaginative dishes. It’s a pity that so few eateries use them.
We ordered a selection of starters and shared them out. There were plenty of crisp, freshly-cooked popadoms with ample relish and chutney. Onion bhajis were crisp and puffs of steam escaped when cut into. A chicken chaat was pleasantly savoury while vegetable bhajis were well seasoned. It was an auspicious start.
We ordered a selection of curries with assorted rice and naans to follow. My wife ordered a chef’s special, featuring chicken in a mango-infused curry. It was a treat, the sweet and spicy flavours combining to good effect. I opted for the chicken pathia, a hot and sour number that never fails to impress.
One friend opted for a chicken and mushroom balti, which had a great consistency and was packed with flavoursome parts. The other went for a thoroughly delicious chicken passanda, the stand-out dish of the evening. The passanda was creamy and rich, with nutty flavours coming through strongly. We all watched enviously as he tucked it away, nicking the odd forkful when his guard was down. The naans were light and fluffy.
We ploughed on with our desserts, though they were nothing to write home about. On reflection, we’d have been better to simply order another drink. No matter.
The Sheraz is a fantastic little curry house, one of my favourite three in the county. The food is imaginative and well spiced. Flavours go to work over a period of time. They seduce the palate, rather than clamour for attention like dishes in many firey curry houses.
Service is great. The waiters are deferential, polite and courteous. And the Sheraz offers great value for money. Dishes are as cheap as chips, with starters around £2.50, mains around £6 and sides a snip. It’s a struggle to get through the sort of sum that many people blow on booze, lottery cards or other triffles during the course of a week.
The true test of any decent eaterie, of course, is whether its customers return. We’ve been to the Sheraz plenty of times and we’ll go back. There’s no bias in that, instead, it’s an honest recommendation from people who enjoy good food, convivial surrounds and great service.
If it improved its desserts, it would warrant a four out of five. As it is, a three will suffice. And, I hope, that won’t cause too much offence.
ADDRESS
Sheraz Tandoori Restaurant, Wyle Cop, Shrewsbury, SY1 1UT
Tel: 01743 242321
MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Onion bhaji (£2.50); mixed kebab (£3.95)
Main courses
Chef’s special (£7.60); salmon tandoori masala (£7.50)
Sides
Pilau rice (£2.30); keema naan (£2.30)
Desserts
Strawberry flute (£2.50); kulfi (£2.50)
ATMOSPHERE
If it wasn’t for the food, you’d be forgiven for thinking you were in your local pub. Very friendly.
SERVICE
Great. A breath of fresh air. Young waiters are polite, well-informed and impressive.
DISABLED FACILITIES
Not the best. The Sheraz is a ramshackle venue but staff are happy to help
By Andy Richardson
4 Comments
I think the reviewers at the Star are beginning to listen to those of their customers who take time to comment on the reviews. In recent months contributors, myself included, have been asking for improvements across the board and without trying to sound like a school teacher this is better. We are actually told about the food, there is constructive critisism and insignificances are kept to a minimum. Erm, that is, if you discount the whole of the first seven paragraphs. We don’t really care about the reviewer and how hard done to s/he feels. If you can’t stand the heat get out of the restaurant. Sympathy? Don’t hold your breath.
I for one would only be too happy to take the Star up on a free meal for the return of 500 well written words and a couple of photos. Where do I send my CV?
I can offer a bit of sympathy to Mr Richardson because as he says, the last couple of reviews he has written have been attacked by some people who clearly dislike him personally. It wouldn’t have mattered what he had written, they would still attack. And no doubt they’ll be along shortly to attack this review.
One thing that surprised me a little was that a review that was full of praise - one of his favourite three curry restaurants in the county - is only worthy of 3 out of 5 stars. Personally I’d give an average place 3. The review makes it sound good, not average. But never mind.
A rating out of 5 stars is not easy for the reviewer and not fair on the restaurants. It does not allow for fair comparison between reviews. People eat out for different reasons. Of course the food is important but for others the ambiance and service may take precedence. Julian is correct that this review sounds good yet only gets 3 stars and the reviewer admits that improvement of the desserts may warrant another star. Personally one star out of only 5 can’t be warranted just for desserts. Perhaps the paper could change the scoring slightly so it provides a more accurate representation of each establishment. A score out of ten would be an improvement but even better would be a score out of five for each of food, service, ambiance and value for money so each reader can can rate a place on what is important to them.
Indeed, to get a picture of the overall service it does need to be broken down into out of 5 Service, value, atmosphere, food, with food i acually mean taste, cooking skill, texture, appearance and not praising basic items that should be cooked well. We dont need the self indulgent prelude to the meeting, we dont need to knwo about ones diet and we dont need to know about there childrens situation.