1779 Restaurant and Bar

Star rating: ****

Sometimes, I spend most of a meal trying not to pick up on the numerous faults, writes James Shaw. Quite often, it is a case of concentrating on the major faults - and believe me, that can be a real conversation killer.

Thankfully, the conversation flowed when my wife Claire and I celebrated the news of our pregnancy at the 1779 restaurant in Sutton Heights.

The location - more commonly known as the Telford Golf and Spa Hotel - has recently undergone a hugely expensive refurbishment programme.

And it appears to have been money well spent.

The interior has clearly been designed to cater for large groups of people - as with any hotel - but it still retains a charm that kept us both warm on a chilly evening outside.

The restaurant, I am told, overlooks the Ironbridge Gorge - a major plus point, had we visited during the day.

Could I hold back a ’star’ for not being able to see the world-famous bridge? Not really - it wasn’t their fault we had decided to eat after sunset.

So would the food give me an excuse to indulge in a moan? Again, I was out of luck.

To begin our meal, I decided to try the beef strips with hoi sin sauce, while Claire chose the potato-and-leek soup.

Once again, I added yet another option to my ‘favourites’ list - the meat was cooked just on the right side of rare, while the sauce was the perfect companion.

Added to the crispy vegetables, my meal was off to a cracking start. Indeed, it was very much a similar situation on Claire’s side of the table.

Her soup was accompanied by the most wonderful warm bread and gave it a superb mix of flavours.

No need for the staff to offer up excuses there, then.

For our main courses, I went for the pork, while Claire was intent on trying the chicken breast with chorizo and dauphinoise.

To be honest, I have had little luck with pork before - the only other time I tried this option a few years ago, I was left very much disappointed.

But on this occasion, there was literally nothing to complain or rant about - a rarity, as Claire will testify.

The meat was genuinely tender and had none of the fatty features that I had previously encountered.

My main course also featured a favourite from the starters - hoi sin sauce with vegetables.

This is perhaps not the most natural choice to accompany pork, but I was so impressed that the staff supplied another helping.

For Claire, the main course was yet another tick in the box.

With her pregnancy progressing well, we are naturally being careful with what she eats - but we had very little to worry about on this occasion.

The chicken, I am told, was on the ‘right side of perfect’ and the meat was gifted with the most perfect of parmesan crusts.

It was at this time that Claire and I took stock of our surroundings and perhaps, discovered a reason for our virtually perfect visit.

It may be that the 1779 is simply not too well known - so perhaps I should keep quite to ensure it stays that way.

But with few other couples dining on that evening, I did wonder how the service staff would cope with a full house?

On this evidence, they would probably manage perfectly well.

The desserts, so often left to one side after two glorious courses, fully deserved their own slice of the limelight on this occasion.

My option, as ever, was ruled by my sweet tooth, so I was more than happy with the chocolate marble cheesecake.

As I had come to expect by this point, there were no faults to find - the base was as moist as anyone could want and the topping was the perfect companion.

Claire’s apple crumble was very much in the same bracket.

A generous helping of the favoured crumbly bits guaranteed a smile on Claire’s face, although the apple filling was equally agreeable.

Not too bitter and not too sweet - she could not have asked for more. With our meal now complete, it was time to move onto the bill.

A price tag of £64 for an excellent three-course meal - complete with soft drinks - was certainly justifiable.

No complaints there, then.

In fact, the only mistake of the evening - and I really am nit-picking on the grandest of scales - occurred towards the end of our main courses.

A small piece of food was left on our table after the plates were cleared.

Literally, that was it - I could find no more reasons to feel negative. And to be honest, I didn’t want to anyway.

In fact, we came away with the feeling that this is perhaps Telford’s best-kept secret.

So, if you don’t mind, I’d rather you keep it to yourselves.

MENU SAMPLE:

Starters: Crab spring rolls (£6.25), Smoked haddock risotto (£6.50

Main courses: Slow-roast pork belly (£13.50), Thermidor seafood pie (£14.95)

Desserts: Coconut-and-lemon tart (£4.50), Vanilla creme brule (£4.50)

Atmosphere: It was rather quiet when we visited and this contributed to a very intimate evening.

Service: On the whole, the staff were informative and clearly very good at their jobs, especially when asked for little extras.

Disabled Facilities: The whole resturant is on one level and a refurbishment means all areas will be made fully accessible.

Contact: Great Hay Drive, Telford TF7 4DT, telephone (01952) 429977