Star rating: **** Sharon Walters puts a brand-new south Shropshire venue to the test - and it gets off to a flying start.
This review will probably ruffle a few feathers, but please hear me out!
I have often bemoaned the demise of the local pub and its reincarnation as a ‘gastro’ eating establishment - a restaurant masquerading as a pub. Local pubs serving
honest-to-goodness food are fast becoming an endangered species, and indeed may already have made the list.
And then these pages have also been used to criticise the chain pubs serving up the same menu all over the country.
But I have to eat my words after sampling one of those chain eateries.
The Squirrel is a newly built pub on the Ludlow bypass and is part of the Marston’s empire. It opened shortly before Christmas and I ate there a week to the day after it opened its doors for the first time.
It was after 8.30pm and we needed some fuel. Other places were full and I have to admit it was a case of last hope when we walked through the doors.
What a pleasant surprise. The place was heaving with couples, families and office parties, and frightfully busy. Yet as we approached the bar we were met and greeted and asked if we just wanted a drink or to eat. Indicating the latter we were shown to a table and our drinks order taken. Menus were handed over and we settled down to choose.
OK, these are menus that you will find at numerous other Marston’s places, or at least very similar. The food will not set the world alight or propel you into paroxysms of delight ˆ la Sunday Times food critic visiting the latest must-visit chic eaterie. But it doesn’t set out to do that. It offers good value, well cooked food with something to suit everyone - snacks, light meals, more 
substantial dishes, salads and a good choice for vegetarians, children and “young adults”. The latter is an especially good idea for those young people who need more than kids fare but not quite a full-blown meal.
Food is served all day, seven days a week, usually from midday until 10pm, with last orders around 9.45pm.
Our pint of Coke arrived (£2.30) and a glass of wine (£2.60). If you want a bottle, prices start at £8.45. Oh how nice not to be ripped off.
I started with black pudding and goat’s cheese (£3.65). Two sizeable slices of said pudding arrived topped with grilled goat’s cheese, a crisp and fresh mixed-leaf salad, cranberry sauce and balsamic drizzle. Delicious.
Neil had golden breaded mushrooms with garlic dip (£3.25) - pretty standard pub grub, but in this case not overcooked so that you cannot spear the fungi with your fork without them flying off the plate.
Next I went for another good idea - a “light bite for the more modest appetites”. This is a choice of main courses but at reduced sizes for £4.95. It had to be the beer-battered fish and chips - well there had to be a taste of Marston’s in the meal somewhere. A haddock fillet which was still a fair size arrived, battered in Marston’s Pedigree bitter with chips and mushy peas (you can have garden peas if you wish). The batter was golden, light and crisp and the fish white and firm-fleshed.
The other main course was pork and black pudding stack (£7.95). It was a large portion consisting of three, three-ounce grilled pork steaks layered with black pudding slices, coated with an apple-and-cider sauce served with wholegrain mustard mash and fresh, steamed vegetables.
Neil had to admit defeat three quarters of the way through!
There was simply no room for puddings and we called it a day.
What was so refreshing about The Squirrel was the care with which the staff had been trained, from the meet-and-greet to the service staff at the table and their smartly turned out appearance.
OK it’s a new establishment and who knows what will happen when the shininess wears off? But I have been to many others where good food has been let down by poor service and the waiting staff in grubby clothes, revealing parts of their anatomy I would rather not see when eating.
The Squirrel , Foldgate Park, Ludlow.
01584 879940
MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Today’s soup (£2.45); King prawn skewers (£3.95).
Main courses
Chef’s homemade beef stew and herb dumplings served with mash and fresh steamed vegetables (£7.95); salmon and asparagus en croute served with new potatoes and fresh steamed vegetables (£7.95)
Desserts
Bread-and-butter pudding (£2.95); ‘Sundae’
sherry trifle (£2.95).
ATMOSPHERE
Busy, bustling pub, not a place for a quiet meal and a chat!
SERVICE
Friendly and attentive.
DISABLED FACILITIES
There is full disabled access and toilet facilities.
12 Comments
Yes, I’m sure it was all lovely. But why in the 21st century, do the designers of these places imagine that all we want is mock tudor, and hunting prints. Surely thay could come up with something better.
And the food may have been ok, but these days people want to know that the meal they are eating hasn’t been trucked half-way round the country. I would be extremely surprised if any of Ludlow’s renowned food producers were supplying this chain-pub.
All good - and better still if local produce is used, rather than standardised ‘cook chill’. Using local produce helps the local economy, does a bit less harm to the environment and helps things taste different/good/a bit special… be good if restaurant reviews looked at/mentioned where ingredients are source from. Where did all that tasty black pudding come from, for instance?
as the capital of cittaslow movement it is a pity that nobody from the pub chain looked into the status of the town and thought to join in the ethos by using locally sourced produce, by operating this way they will be supporting the area’s economy and ethos, they are situated close by the eco park where the uk headquarters of cittaslow are based, a bond could be forged between the new local and its surrounding suppliers
Oh dear, it seems the first three people need a visit from Bob Marley.
We read your review and tried The Squirrel what a great meal. Fantastic value and WOW Rotisserie chicken very tasty. Thanks.
Visted with relatives before Christmas, the place was heaving, and although service was a little slow,we were served with a smile and apology,the meal was lovely and at a reasonable cost (which makes a change for Ludlow) Lovely atmosphere, will definitely go again, and recommend to all!
I eat in a variety of styles of restaurant around the country from pretty high class down to one or two of the fast food chains and I tend to adjust my expectations accordingly!
A chain like this isn’t going to source locally just to ‘be nice to Ludlow’ - that’s an unrealistic expectation.
The Squirrel fills a gap in the market for people who want this sort of very well priced family meal out without booking in advance or dressing up. All the other places in town are still there for people who prefer their offering.
The only things we are missing now are a good quality sit-down Chinese and an Italian restaurant.
Rupert.
I’ve eaten in this pub twice now and both times have been a pleasureable experience. If the prices of meal in this pub stays reasonable i think people will always walk through the door. Local produce foods do help the ecomony but they don’t help the pocket of the general person.
I love local produce, cittaslow etc HOWEVER, Marstons really have researched this market. For a good value, family orientated eating establishment, we can not fault this. We have been three times and had a great meal evey time. We had a free bottle of wine with our steaks and the children loved the food. Every now and then it’s nice to do something different. Well done Squirrel
We asked where the food came from and were told that the main menu was brought in through Marstons but that the Chef’s specials were made on site and the ingredients bought locally. A good compromise I thought and thoroughly enjoyed.
Further to our visit just before Christmas, we returned last weekend, again with friends.We expected to have have to wait, as the pub was particularly busy! However, much to our delight, all of our meals arrived within minutes of ordering, we had all chosen to have a different meal, and each was piping hot and freshly cooked. this pub is going from strength to strength, and is a refreshing addition to Ludlow! Fantastic!
Fantastic is the word to sum up this pub!
Great service,atmosfere,food and the price is very resonable without a doubt !
Definitely going to be my local !5 +++++