Star rating: *** I overshot the turn-off for the Boycott Arms near Claverley even though I thought I knew where it was, tucked away just off the Dudley to Telford road.
But it was as dark as pitch at the time and I was part-dazzled by a lorry’s headlights.
I suspect other travellers may also whizz by without realising that this traditional country pub offers an excellent stopping-off point for a hearty meal in informal surroundings.
After enduring a frantic episode of Christmas shopping, a pub meal offered a welcome respite from the noisy, neon-lit stores and their headache-inducing special offers.
The Boycott Arms was dimly-lit. It was not pumping out piped music and there was plenty of room to move around and to lift your elbows without nudging a well-fed lady next to you.
We did encounter an initial hiccup, however. The bubbly girl at the bar was most welcoming and invited us to choose seats in the dining lounge or in the restaurant room next door. I parked myself on a comfortable, high-backed bench seat next to a radiator in the lounge and studied the menus.
I suppose I’m used to being waited-on hand and foot and expected a waitress to appear. After 25 minutes I noticed a wooden spoon with our table number on it and deduced we were expected to order at the bar. My faux par.
After this minor slip everything went swimmingly. They have an extensive choice (unless you are a vegetarian that is, as there seems to be only two starters and one main course - Italian three-bean casserole).
To begin with I looked no further than the Thai fish cakes with (a throat-warming) chilli sauce, thinly sliced cucumber strips and salad bits (£4.75). It was top notch, particularly the spicy sauce which I mopped up with some of Libby’s fresh, chunky bread. This bread came from “the little shop down the road”, apparently. I must call in.
Libby had several generous slices by way of her deep-fried whitebait with tartare sauce (£4.50). She’s a fish fan, and knows her whitebait. I thought it was fine but she judged it was a little lacking in flavour. Blame the fish, I say.
Our plates were promptly cleared away and I had barely noted the stained glass, leaded windows, faded prints, deceptive little step up into the gents corridor, the Toby jugs and rustic garden hoe when the lamb arrived.
Coincidentally we had both chosen lamb although the meals were entirely different. Libby had ordered Moroccan lamb with apricot and pine nuts with rice (£10.25). I went for the lamb shank in a rich, red wine gravy with new potatoes and vegetables (large chunks of carrots and a broccoli head).
We both enjoyed the lamb. Libby pronounced the Moroccan, tagine-style slow-cooked veg excellent and I said the same about my accompaniments. The only difference was I finished all of mine. The Boycott Arms serves full, not vast, portions, which I was happy to see.
Time then to digest and relax and contemplate the desserts. There was banana split, cheesecake, etc, all £4.75. I eventually compromised between being sensible and gluttonous and agreed to share a red berry pavlova with Libby.
It came in a huge dish, with lots of sliced banana, kiwi fruit, red berries, ice-cream and cream and even a physalis . . . and two spoons. Very little was left.
The Boycott Arms is being expertly run by Janice Giles and Joanne Tolley and has earned a reputation for good food. It was a customer who suggested it should be reviewed. If there is any criticism it can be directed at the smoke-stained paintwork. Little excuse now for that.
ADDRESS
Boycott Arms, Upper Ludstone, Claverley, WV5 7DH
Telephone: 01746 710272
MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Home-made potato wedges with barbecue or garlic dip (£4.25); luxury prawn cocktail with Marie Rose dressing and granary bread (£4.50).
Main courses
Home-made turkey and ham pie in a rich gravy and puff pastry hat (£9.95); whale of a cod, over a pound in weight, in crispy batter (£9.25).
SIDE ORDERS
Onion rings (£1.50); pan fried mushrooms (£1.75); four garlic bread slices (£1.95).
Desserts
Hot chocolate fudge cake; treacle sponge; apple pie (all £4.25).
ATMOSPHERE
Relaxed and cosy.
SERVICE
Friendly and efficient after initial misunderstanding.
DISABLED FACILITIES
Toilets for wheelchair users are near the restaurant, there is a ramp into dining room
By Rex M Key
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