Star Rating: ****
You may need to summon up a bit of determination to get to the Oak Tree Restaurant at The Bringewood but, by golly, it’s worth it.
It is off the beaten track, somewhat, but in my judgment it qualifies as having the best location and best outlook of any restaurant in the region.
And not just that; the food is in a class of its own.
I’d been determined to choose a suitable summer evening to venture south into Mortimer Forest, a comparatively wild and remote area which I’d visited (on a motorcycle) 35 years previously thanks to the Thomas family.
Bringewood Chase is a vast, wooded area bordered by the beautiful Pipe Aston to Wigmore valley. I anticipated an impressive sunset.
We were in the area on an archaeological dig and it was a local couple, Roy and Claire, who recommended we try the food and hospitality at the Bringewood.
To get there you turn off a narrow country lane into a narrower country lane and press on deep into sheep country.
Buzzards called overhead, rabbits scampered about, only the extensive herds of fallow deer failed to make an appearance.
Eventually we reached a quiet village and noticed a hotel sign advising us we had another mile-and-a-half to go. The lane got narrower, twistier and steeper but the journey paid handsome dividends, a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.
To call it a barn conversion would almost be a misnomer. It is a lovely, intriguing building but apart from the superb high-timbered roof there is little to suggest it had an agricultural heritage, filled until fairly recently with cow stalls.
There is always the danger that such a cavernous building will lack intimacy, but with several couples and two family groups dining that evening it had quite a lively atmosphere.
But I would be happy to dismiss all this as a side show (excellent though it is) because the food was so good. I haven’t been to every eating establishment in the county, but I have not had better looking or better tasting food than that at the Bringewood.
We quickly struck up a conversation with Neil and Steve Cocum who co-manage the hotel and restaurant and are the driving force who turned the range of redundant farm buildings into a luxury hotel and 100-seater restaurant.
I started with an orange juice (mindful of the long drive home) while Libby had a gin and tonic.
The two-course menu costs £25 with three courses priced at £29. The five starters included lambs kidneys, grilled goats cheese and chicken, ham and Shropshire Blue mousse.
I ordered grilled fillet of sea bass with tomato and herb risotto. Wow. Sea bass is usually good but this was unusually good. It was a small, starter portion of course but I wished it could have lasted all evening such was the exquisite flavour.
Lovely, warm, crusty bread added to the enjoyment.
Libby’s choice was equally superb. Grilled, fanned avocado topped with oak smoked salmon set on turmeric spiced prawns. An interesting combination, she said, even without the prawns.
There were six main courses; they all sounded delicious. Poached wings of skate drizzled with spiced olive oil dressing; pot roast shoulder of Burrington lamb and pan-fried rib eye of Hereford beef all very tempting.
Eventually I settled on the chilli roast loin of Gloucester Old Spot with black pudding and apple and sage chutney. It was a cracker. Never have I detected so much flavour in a few slices of pork.
Old Spot is rightly celebrated for its taste and the chef’s skill in its preparation, cooking and presentation with classic, seasonal flavourings was perfect.
The breast of Gressingham duck hit all the right notes for Libby. It came with a damson and port sauce and, again, pushed the bar to the faultless level. The meat was served pink of course, in generous thick-cut slices.
The selection of carefully-cooked vegetables included thin beans, carrot strips broccoli and new potatoes.
Desserts could not be passed over, the food here was just too good; and I have never yet been able to resist blackberry cheesecake. This came on a vanilla shortbread base and was devoured down to the last crumb. Fresh blackberries take some beating.
Libby enjoyed her fruit-packed summer pudding and we finished off with fresh coffee.
The hotel can accommodate weddings, parties and weekend events, and its restaurant is open on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.
It is being marketed quite obviously as a marriage venue and on that warm summer evening, with the moon rising over Upper Aston fields, the romance of the place was palpable.
By Rex M Key
MENU SAMPLE:
Starters: Lambs kidneys cooked with local sausages in a red wine sauce; chicken, ham and Shropshire Blue mousse with olive oil spinach and beetroot and apple chutney.
Main courses: Pan-fried escalope of English Rose veal with spinach, ham, smoked cheddar and Madeira sauce; pan-fried local rib-eye Hereford beef with a red wine sauce and horseradish mash.
Desserts: Cardamom, lavender and saffron creme brulee; warm chocolate tart with organic ice-cream.
Atmosphere: Calm, refined, relaxed, friendly - all of these and much more.
Service: First class. Friendly and efficient. The management took time to make everyone feel welcome.
Disabled Facilities: Full facilities for the disabled. Staff are ever willing to help.
Contact: The Bringewood Oak Tree Restaurant, Burrington, nr Ludlow (01568 770033 www.thebringewood.co.uk
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