Jenko’s Mongolian, Telford

Star rating: *****  As we approached Jenko’s Mongolian Barbecue at The Compasses Inn, Ketley, Telford, via a road I’d never been down before I could see my friend, Jen, wasn’t impressed.

I didn’t know where I was taking her and also felt rather nervous myself – this wasn’t looking like what I had described to her.

As we walked into the bar area of the pub I was convinced I’d got the wrong place – but as a head popped through the doorway and invited us through, I was left stunned. Believe it or not – speechless.

We were welcomed into a warmly lit area with a queue of people watching their wonderful food being cooked and a fantastic array of smells tantalising us already.

Norma, who we were later introduced to as one of the owners, asked the smart and very polite young waiter to show us through. Yet another surprise, a huge log cabin adorned with massive hand painted canvasses boasting mongolian warriors, candle lit handmade chunky tables and, with two parties already tucking in, a fantastic atmosphere.

As we took our table for two, the waiter must have been able to read our mind – we hadn’t got a clue what we were supposed to do. We were Mongolian barbecue virgins.

The pleasant waiter came to our rescue and said “would you like me to explain what to do?” Relief.

Right we were ready, order our starters with him, then when we were ready go to the food area choose what we want and the waiting chef would cook it to our liking. He also tempted us with a 10oz steak too.

He also encouraged us to go up as many times as we wanted – which if our eyes weren’t so big and the starters and side orders were not so tempting we would have been able to.

I enjoyed a starter of garlic mushrooms, served with ciabatta, while Jen polished off a more than generous portion of spicy chilly prawn cocktail.

A fantastic start and going by the size, taste and service of the starters we were in for a good time.

After enjoying a glass of chilled white wine, we nervously approached the barbecue area. Selecting our dish, I started with mushrooms, peppers, pineapple – Jen followed nervously behind. She still hadn’t got a clue what she was doing!

I was going to choose just one meat but then had a bit of each – beef, pork, chicken and lamb. Tempted by the succulent looking prawns, Mark (the owner) who was behind us giving tips of the trade suggested keeping meat and fish separate due to the different cooking times.

Then onto the herbs and spices: I’m afraid I stuck to what I knew, telling myself I would be more adventurous on the next visit.

Mark’s advice was appreciated once again as he said to put at least two ladles of sauce – again sticking to what I know went for chilli and sweet and sour. Afterwards I spotted the satay – my favourite. Next time it is.

Then on to the circular griddle they went – where we watched the young talented chef move each person’s meal around with his large wooden utensils (I’m sure there is a professional word for them!) until it was ready.

When it reached the other side of the circle, into the dish it went and back to the table we went. But then we realised there was more – pasta, noodles and rice.

But with our 10oz steaks also on the plate and “must have” homemade chips ready on the table, we opted out.

As I cut into my steak I sounded in such shock, Jen thought there was something wrong – my knife glided through. Literally amazing.

There wasn’t any steak sauces offered on the menu but minutes after a polite request we were served with a pepper and brandy sauce.

The barbecue taste of my stirfry – created by my own hands! – was mouth watering. All I could think about was what concoction I was going to have next.

Sadly we didn’t get another visit – but that was through no fault of the restaurant because at 10pm we were still being offered a chance to revisit. We were simply too full.

Hoping the fresh air on the decked patio would help free up some space, we looked at the dessert menu. Never failing to amaze, staff at The Compasses offered nearly 30 desserts which Norma proudly says includes just two which are not homemade.

But she soon hopes to scrap the two odd ones out to make room for her new ideas. We were really tempted but no matter how long we sat we couldn’t fit one in – but no excuses, Norma said, and packed us both off with a takeaway box with our favourite homemade cheesecake selection.

It finished off the meal perfectly – but not until the next day, I might add!

If I could have I would have easily given this restaurant 6 out of 5 – it is the first restaurant I have ever been to where I cannot even give the slightest criticism.

Everything about it – service, food, atmosphere, drinks – was 110 per cent.

Well actually, one thing was missing – snow falling outside the window of the log cabin. But Norma said she will try her best for Christmas!

This is really a first class experience. But before we go back for the Mongolian barbecue we will be there for the Sunday carvery which boasts 14 different vegetable dishes to accompany five meats – and even a delivery service. Perfection in every way.

ADDRESS
Jenko’s at The Compasses Inn, 72 Beveley Road, Ketley, Telford
Tel: 01952 617997

MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Roast peppers with a tomato, garlic and olive oil centre served on hot ciabatta with salad garnish (£3.95),Spare ribs in a rich barbecue sauce (£3.95)

Main courses
Eat as much of Jenko’s Mongolian Barbecue as you can for £10.25 or add a 10oz steak for £15.99. Barbecue includes a huge selection of vegetables and salads, meats, fish, herbs and spices and sauces.

Sides
Fresh feta salad drizzled in a special dressing (£2.95); Home-made crispy chips (£1.95)

Desserts
Five choices of homemade cheesecake (£3.95)

ATMOSPHERE
Extremely welcoming, cosy and warm. Just needed snow outside to finish it off.

SERVICE
First class. Young polite waiters who are very well trained.

DISABLED FACILITIES
Disabled access.

SMOKING
Candle lit decked patio where customers can smoke.

By Kirsty Marston