Rating: **** - The Cross Guns has become quite an office favourite at MNA Digital, the Shropshire Star’s online operation, being only a five-minute drive from our offices in Albrighton just off junction 3 of the M54.
Whether for a quick drink or a value-for-money lunch, it has a relaxed yet sophisticated, modern atmosphere.
Having enjoyed a couple of meals with colleagues, I decided it was time to introduce my partner, Debs, to the Cross Guns.
We arrived mid-afternoon one Sunday to find the place buzzing, a convivial atmosphere, with a pianist providing music in the bar area, while piped music entertained the diners at the other end.
The Cross Guns operates a fixed price menu. On Sundays one course is £11.95, two courses are £13.95 and three courses are £15.95, with a 10 per cent discretionary service charge added to all bills.
The midweek lunch time menu is much cheaper but operates on a similar fixed price policy.
In a fairly short time we were shown to our table for two where a treat awaited us, a lovely warm ciabatta with olive oil and balsamic vinegar to dip it in.
Having whetted our appetites, it wasn’t long to wait until our starters arrived. Being veggie, the starter choice was quite varied, including homemade vegetable soup, chilled melon and breaded French brie with cranberry chutney. But I went for creamy field mushrooms with garlic toast soldiers.
And what a great decision! This came swimming in a sea of mushroom-flavoured cream, the mushrooms themselves fat, juicy and flavour-packed.
Debs was equally delighted with her starter of smoked haddock and spring onion fishcakes with a chunky tartare, although she had been tempted by the likes of devilled whitebait and a classic prawn cocktail. The fishcakes came beautifully presented (another Cross Guns trademark), and were flaky and delicious.
Although I had a fair choice for the starter I had just the one option for the main course, vegetarian gnocchi in a provencal sauce. I certainly had no problem with the course itself, it’s just that I always think it’s at least nice to have a choice. To give the place some credit, I have been told in the past that I can always ask and the kitchens can come up with other ideas.
Anyway, enough of my griping. My main course was, in any case, delicious. The gnocchi was firm but not too firm and the sauce was bursting with tomato flavour, with just the right amount of spicy background.
Debs had a much greater choice, of course, from roast sirloin of beef, to supreme of Scottish salmon to homemade lasagne. In the end though she couldn’t resist the winter warming beef stew with pink peppercorn and Dijon dumplings. This was a true meaty feast (I’m told), the meat cooked to perfection.
Our main course came with a more than generous helping of side vegetables in a number of serving bowls, all of it hot and fresh.
I’m not really sure how we managed to fit in a dessert too, but it was helped by the fact that we were left alone for quite some time after we had finished our main course. Luckily we had plenty to chat about and eventually we were presented with the sweet menu.
I had already decided I didn’t have a sweet tooth and so went for the platter of cheese, grapes and celery, a lovely light choice, featuring a creamy Brie and a not-too-strong blue cheese.
Debs on the other hand went for the sticky toffee pudding cheesecake with butterscotch sauce, which was, in the end perhaps just a little too heavy after the first two courses.
We finished off our meal with a couple of coffees and retired to the reception bar area to enjoy the relaxed atmosphere for just a little while longer.
The Cross Guns’ Sunday menu changes every week and there is a different menu during the week.
ADDRESS
The Cross Guns at Codsall Wood, near Wolverhampton.
Tel 01902 842567
MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Breaded French Brie with cranberry chutney, warm Scottish smoked salmon with honey dill dressing.
Main courses
Roast pheasant with red wine jus, supreme of Scottish salmon in a lobster prawn sauce, 10oz rib eye steak with peppercorn sauce.
Desserts
Ice cream-filled profiteroles, selection of ice creams and sorbets, glazed creme brulee.
ATMOSPHERE
Modern, relaxed sophistication.
SERVICE
Friendly and efficient, although a fairly long wait before our desserts.
DISABLED FACILITIES
There are disabled toilets and access available.
SMOKING POLICY
No smoking in the front bar and restaurant. Smoking is only allowed in the rear bar.
By Ian Harvey
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