Rating: **** Top flight restaurants come and go quicker than you can say foie gras custard with sweet corn cream and a sesame glaze. All are at the mercy of the great gastronomic god, called customer.
Venues with exceptional chefs can fold, if they are opened in the wrong place. Similarly, eateries serving insipid frozen ready meals can thrive, if that’s what the local market demands.
The French restaurateurs Franck and Louise Choblet know their market better than most. The duo bought Ludlow’s prestigious Overton Grange Hotel in recent years and have invested huge sums. They appointed the brilliant French chef Oliver Bossut and its fortunes have risen.
Now they are turning their attentions to the noble gastro pub. Mr Choblet says: “People enjoy fine dining. But not everyone wants a formal dinner. There is also a market for people who want exceptional food in more relaxed surrounds.”
The Roebuck, at Brimfield, is the Choblet’s first venture into gastro pubs, though already they have plans to open a second venue.
Their first foray is destined to be a huge success. The Roebuck is a venue well known for its good food. The Ludlow chef David Willson-Lloyd earned the venue an enviable reputation during his tenure there. And though its fortunes dipped when Mr Willson-Lloyd departed for pastures new, it is set to enjoy a new lease of life under the brilliant Choblets.
The Choblets can spot a good venue, in the same way that Sharon Osbourne or Simon Cowell can spy musical talent. The venue sits in an enviable location, on the outskirts of Ludlow. It is in a quiet village, though has ample parking for people willing to travel to eat.
My wife and I visited on a quiet midweek evening a few weeks after The Roebuck had reopened. We expected it to be almost empty, but were delighted to find it half full. And it was not difficult to see why people were attracted to it. The venue is unrecognisable from the black-and-white beamed, traditional pub of yesteryear.
It has been given the sort of stylish makeover that only the Choblets could achieve. Gone are smoke-stained walls, out-of-date ye olde pub fittings and old fashioned furniture. In have come beautiful, solid wood parquet floors, deep coloured walls, fashionable sculptures and delightful paintings.
And the food is exceptionally good. The Choblets are offering the standards of formal dining at pub prices. It’s no wonder that the venue’s order book is filling up so quickly.
My wife and I enjoyed a leisurely drink in the Roebuck’s bar. We were delighted by the attention to detail. There were small bowls of olives on the bar, rather than the perfunctory and unhygienic peanuts, favoured by so many other venues. Drinks were brought to our tables and staff presented us with exceptional menus.
It was no surprise to see so much being made of seasonal, locally-produced produce. There were delightful starters, like pan-fried chicken liver and bacon salad, with raspberry dressing; a game terrine with cassis jelly, chestnut and toasted brioche or goat cheese and fennel tart with balsamic roasted cherry tomatoes.
But we were in the mood for something light and my wife opted for the freshly made seasonal soup with warm crusty bread. She pronounced it delicious. The bread, in particular, was of the highest quality. The kitchen had sliced thick slices from a freshly made bloomer, which was still steaming. I opted for the ravioli of Cornish crab with a petit ratatouille and basil cream. It was heaven in a bowl.
It took us a while to select our main courses. There were great fish dishes, plenty of local game, rib eye steaks and classics like coc au vin. My wife opted for her favourite fowl, pheasant, which came served with a creamy savoy cabbage and a truffle jus. The pheasant had been cooked with great skill, though the truffle jus was an unnecessary add-on to a dish that was already supremely savoury.
I opted for the slow roasted piglet, served with a Bramley apple fondue, mash and port glaze. It was sensational. The meat was ridiculously tender, the apple just sharp and the mash added a good balance to the other textures and flavours. My only quibble was the dreadful crackling. It was soft and chewy at the edges and black and burnt in the middle. Never mind.
For dessert, my wife selected an indifferent and over-cooked meringue while I chose the only-just-above-average Panatone bread-and-butter pudding, with apricot and a cinnamon creme anglais. It was an enjoyable, though underwhelming, conclusion to an exceptionally good meal.
The Roebuck will become Ludlow’s latest gastronomic hit. It is priced very reasonably, our three-course dinner with drinks came in at just under £60. The standard of cooking is comfortably on a par with Shropshire’s two AA rosette-ranked restaurants, though it may sneak a third.
And the informality of the surrounds, the delightful artwork that adorns walls, the comfortable chairs and impressive furnishings only add to the experience.
Our two waiters were helpful, though their inexperience was evident at times.
ADDRESS
The Roebuck, Brimfield, near Ludlow
01584 711230
www.theroebuckinnludlow.co.uk
email: info@theroebuckludlow.co.uk
MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Seasonal soup (£4.50), Steamed mussels in cider and saffron cream (£5.95)
Main courses
Venison and mushroom pie (£13.50), Rib eye on the grill (£14.50)
Sides
Garlic and herb bread (£1.95), Buttered mash (£1.95)
Desserts
Panatone bread and butter pudding (£5.50)
ATMOSPHERE
Civilised and ever-so-slightly sophisticated. Talk is of au pairs, business and property.
SERVICE
Good, but could be a lot better. Young staff are inexperienced.
DISABLED FACILITIES
Good. Staff are also willing to help anyone who requires assistance
SMOKING POLICY
No smoking in restaurant
By Andy Richardson
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