Rating: *** Sometimes, folk just want a nice big steak. There’s no rhyme to it, no reason and certainly no health-related persuasion as to why I should plump for a huge slab of meat. But I wanted one - and that is what I told my fiancée Claire as we arrived at the Bridge Builder in Telford - but more about that later.
We had, admittedly, tried a few other locations before happening upon the eaterie, which perches on the edge of the Wellington Retail Park.
Bearing in mind that the clock was rumbling towards 5pm (as was my stomach) this was the only place serving reasonable food that we knew of.
As ever, the welcome was typical of a huge, sprawling pub - a little distant, but homely enough to make it seem warmer than the windy evening we had left behind.
Once we had negotiated the massed ranks of family groups, Claire and I discovered a cosy little table nestled far away from the main activity.
Much like many other pubs in the area, the Bridge Builder offers a rather straightforward “two-for-one” menu, where the least expensive main course is free.
As is tradition, we both went straight for the main courses - and that is when the steak caught my eye.
My earlier desire for a steak was more than confirmed by the sight of a 16oz option on the menu.
Claire, on the other hand, went for a chicken, bacon and cheeseburger - without, of course, the customary salad and mayonnaise.
I will, one day, persuade her to try something even vaguely green. Well, perhaps.
Anyway, the steak came with a delicious peppercorn sauce and arrived on my table with a tempting thud. Indeed, it was thick and juicy enough to satisfy all my carnivorous desires and left my plate in double-quick time.
Claire, on the other hand, seemed a tad concerned at the curious coating on the chicken (anything spicy is a real no-no) and took just a few tentative mouthfuls.
But it wasn’t long before she decided that the breadcrumb coating was suitable for eating, although it did seem to be suspiciously overcooked and rather dry.
While neither of our courses were out of the ordinary, they were, nevertheless, somewhat suitable alternatives to cooking at home after a hard day at work.
But no review of a local pub/restaurant is complete without a quick check of the service on offer.
Unfortunately, our quick check of the service took a little longer, after our desserts were held up for almost 20 minutes.
Although the problems were explained away by a fault with the till, it still put a slight dampener on the meal.
And when our desserts arrived, it was clear that the staff intended to make their apologies through portion sizes.
While Claire’s toffee and vanilla cheesecake was modest enough, I seemed to have been given a double portion of the rather grand-sounding mega sundae.
Bearing in mind that the hefty steak was still sitting firmly on my conscience, I couldn’t muster the courage to fully tackle the mountain of chocolate on my table.
I rolled up my sleeves and tried to do my best, but I simply ran out of steam as the guilt over the size of my waistline finally rose to the surface.
Claire, on the other hand, tittered quietly at my plight as she polished off a cheesecake that she told me was superb. Although she said that the flavour was, perhaps, a little bland for her liking.
Overall, the bill came to just over £25 - not a bad total, considering that we also included a pint of shandy and a Bacardi Breezer into the bargain.
This did take into account the two-for-one offer and the expense would, perhaps, have been a little too high without it.
ADDRESS
The Bridge Builder, Wellington Retail Park, Telford.
Tel 01952 243741
MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Traditional prawn cocktail (£3.25), Chicken & pepper kebabs (£3.45)
Main courses
Salmon with noodles and a plum & ginger sauce (£11.95), Cumberland sausage and mash filled Yorkshire pudding (£7.95)
Desserts
Jam roly poly (£2.55), Profiteroles (£2.65)
ATMOSPHERE
Typical of a large, family-based pub and perhaps not suited to an intimate dinner for two.
SERVICE
Could have been much more efficient and friendliness varied wildly between staff.
DISABLED FACILITIES
There are disabled toilet facilities and access available.
SMOKING POLICY
Smoking is still allowed in small parts of the pub.
By James Shaw
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