Rating: **** I have been working at new offices in Albrighton since May of this year but until last week had never heard of Boningale, a tiny village just a stone’s throw away, writes Ian Harvey. There’s nothing like the promise of a foaming pint to make a country walk worthwhile and luckily one particular walk took my partner Debs and I right to the front door of The Horns at Boningale.
We were immediately impressed by the warm, friendly service in the bar and checked out the Sunday menu, although we weren’t planning to eat that day. As is often the case I found the vegetarian choices rather limited, so imagine my surprise when we picked up the restaurant’s evening menu and found a whole page packed with veggie delights.
Debs and I immediately resolved to make a return within the week and treat ourselves to an evening meal. We had a little explore and found that as well as a cosy bar and decent-sized lounge there is a separate restaurant as well, which can seat 84 people. It is dominated by a feature fireplace and looked a little austere in daylight, with its wood panelling and leaded windows.
But five days later we took our seats in a quite different atmosphere, the room dimly lit and aglow with candlelight.
There were two birthday parties in attendance that night which mean the waiting staff were run off their feet and constantly apologising for being slow, but it gave us the chance to enjoy our drinks (a £10.10 bottle of Chilean Concha Y Toro Sauvignon Blanc) and soak up the atmosphere.
According to a notice on the wall, The Horns “dates back over 300 years and in the 18th Century was a regular stopping-off point for Shropshire cattlemen. Legend has it that a friendly ghost regularly plays tricks on the incumbent landlord by switching the lights on in the middle of the night but it is believed to be playful rather than a scary spirit”.
Luckily the prices weren’t too scary either. The starter I decided on was deep-fried breaded Brie on warm cranberry sauce (£4.50) which just edged out red pepper filled with mediterranean vegetable risotto (£3.75). The Brie came with a really firm breaded crust which gave way to cheese with some reluctance, but the mix of the creamy, soft Brie and cranberry sauce was delightful, coupled with the crunch of a small, fresh salad.
Debs’ starter was a seafood crumble (£4.25). This turned out to be salmon, hake, smoked haddock and prawns in a dill sauce with a sage crumble. Debs was delighted with the way the herb flavours infused the fish.
Debs kept up the fish theme with her main course, which was baked halibut steak, served with a tomato and spring onion beurre blanc, a butter sauce alive with the flavours of white wine and garlic. The fish just fell apart in the mouth and the sauce proved a huge hit.
Debs’ meal came with a more than generous side dish of vegetables (which we both shared). This consisted of sliced, buttered potatoes, new potatoes, carrots, courgettes and the freshest, crunchiest green beans.
Once again I struggled to make my veggie choice, torn between twice-baked cheese, onion and tomato soufflé (£7) and mixed bean, celery and coriander chilli (£7.60). In the end I plumped for the veggie chilli, which arrived with a serving of white rice. The chilli was packed with beans and packed with flavour too, punchy and nice and hot.
We were both pretty full when it came time to choose from the dessert menu and decided to share. Our fresh fruit meringue (£3.50) was light and tasty and just the way to end the meal, a mixture of melon, kiwi fruit, strawberry and apple on a meringue case, served with whipped cream and a raspberry jus.
That just left us to finish our wine and settle the bill, a very reasonable £43.04.
ADDRESS:
The Horns of Boningale, near Albrighton (A464)
Tel (01952) 372347
www.horns-boningale.co.uk
MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Chicken and roasted red pepper terrine infused with basil (£3.95), oriental duck salad (£4.95), seafood crumble (£4.25).
Main courses
Beef teriyaki (£9.50), trio of sausage (three different kinds) on mash with onion gravy (£7.95), ribeye steak (£11.50), mixed bean, celery and coriander chilli (£7.60).
Desserts
Damson brandy snap, fresh fruit meringue, trio chocolate truffle (all £3.50).
ATMOSPHERE
Relaxed and cosy.
SERVICE
Friendly and attentive.
DISABLED FACILITIES
There are disable toilet facilities and access available.
SMOKING POLICY
Smoking is only allowed in the bar.
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