Chutneys, Pontesbury

Rating: *** We’re huge fans of curry, at our house, writes Andy Richardson. We rarely go a week without sampling the delights of a balti, madras, dopiaza or pathia. And our craving for the hot stuff compels us to visit local restaurants every few weeks.

So, to celebrate a 15th birthday, we decided to take the teenager to a curry house that we’d heard good reports of. Chutneys is situated in Pontesbury, a short drive from home, and we booked a table for three.

We arrived to an empty car park and entirely empty restaurant. It’s only the second time ever that we’d faced a room full of empty chairs, but we were undaunted. We took the view that no other diners meant we could enjoy each other’s conversation, without unnecessary distractions.

The waiter for the evening was friendly enough, dividing his time between waiting our table and going back to his seat behind the bar, where he made his way slowly through a copy of The Sun. We were happy to be left alone. There was plenty to catch up on, with plans for college, obsessions with eBay and other matters to keep us busy. And, with no other people present, we had all the time in the world.

Eventually, our thoughts turned to a menu that featured standard curry house selections. We opted for a bundle of popaduoms with a fiery selection of dips and chutneys. Delicious.

The teenager started with a prawn cocktail. The selection made no sense to me, but then I’ve never understood people who go to a curry house and order an omelette or chicken and chips. The dish was to her liking, though she didn’t enjoy the pointless glace cherry on top. Let’s face it, who does?

My wife started with an onion bhaji, which was fair to middling. The best bhajis are light and crisp with strong onion flavours. These were crispy on the outside but cloying and floury in the middle. They were better than the dreadful bhajis sold in supermarkets, but some way short of the best we’ve eaten.

I opted for a chicken pakora, which was distinctly average. The pakora was actually a chunk of tandoori chicken in a ball of unflattering batter, served with salad and a wedge of lemon. When you’re paying low prices in a local curry house, you don’t expect sensational starters every time. But the pakora was a flop, even by those standards.

No matter. Our waiter was genial enough to tear himself away from The Sun and made repeat visits to us to ply us with J2Os, cokes and lager’n'limes.

The teenager opted for a chicken and mushroom balti as her main course. She polished it off in record time and pronounced it satisfying and delicious. My wife opted for the chicken and mushroom balti, and was also satisfied with her selection.

I opted for a dish I’d never previously eaten, a chicken korai. It was a hot and ever so slightly sour curry, similar to a pathia. The chicken wasn’t over cooked and the sauce was exceptional. The waiter had chuckled to himself when I ordered it, warning me that it could be a touch fierce. But I was impressed by the confident flavours and would happily order it again.

Our main courses were served with plenty of pilau rice and some of the best nan breads that I’ve eaten in Shropshire. They were light and fluffy, like giant pillows, and filled our table. We happily tore off huge chunks and dipped them into our pots of curry.

Our waiter returned to clear the table and bring those ridiculous microwaved fingerwipes, so popular among curry houses.

Usually, when visiting a curry house, we head for home after our main course. But at the insistence of the teenager, who was determined to make the most of her birthday, we lingered longer and ordered deserts.

I opted for a mango kulfi, which was a delightful antidote to the chicken korai. The smooth, milky flavour was a wonderful way to round off my dinner. The teenager and my wife both opted for bought-in, frozen dessrts packed with chocolate, sugar and cream. They both seemed happy enough with their choices, though I wondered why so many curry houses spend so little time on good desserts.

No matter, though the starters and desserts were nothing to write home about, the main courses were a treat and we were impressed with the chef’s culinary skills. As the evening drew to a close, we wore happy and contented smiles.

The teenager had enjoyed a good birthday meal and, at just £53, it had been eminently affordable. We weren’t put off by the lack of customers and, as a restaurant that’s well established, there’s no doubt that Chutneys packs in much bigger crowds at weekends and when the local pubs close.

There were plenty of areas for improvement. The interior designer had obviously been reading too many books called something like ‘Curry House Interiors From the 1960s’. There wasn’t flock wall paper on the walls, but there was everything else associated with a cheap, down-at-heel look. A good lick of paint would have refreshed the tired-looking dining room and given it some life.

But I’d happily revisit Chutneys. The main courses were as good as those in all but the best curry houses in Shropshire and we enjoyed the luxury of being the only guests on a cold and blustery Tuesday evening.

Pontesbury may be a small dot on Shropshire’s map, but for fans of food it’s well worth a visit.

ADDRESS
Chutneys, The Old Bakehouse, Brookside, Pontesbury
Tel (01743) 791848

MENU SAMPLE
Starters
Mixed kebab(£3.10), Tandoori chicken (£2.60)

Main courses
Chicken tikka masala (£6.85); Chicken rogan josh (£4.65)

Sides
Sag paneer(£2.25), Pilau rice (£1.80)

Desserts
Kulfi fantastica (£2.75), Pineapple fritters (£1.95)

ATMOSPHERE
We visited on a very quiet night. But, we were assured, things are much more lively at weekends

SERVICE
Very good. Waiters are attentive and explain speciality dishes

DISABLED FACILITIES
No disabled toilet but ramps make things easy and staff are ever willing to help

SMOKING POLICY
Smoking and non-smoking areas