Whites @ The Clockhouse

Tenbury Wells

Star rating: ****

It had always been Sarah Macdonald’s dream to return to her home town and open a restaurant.

After years working in London, she had a vision for an up market wine bar serving home-made food; a place women could feel comfortable in alone; and a place to enjoy a more sophisticated night out.

And that dream has now become a reality with the opening of Whites @ The Clockhouse in Tenbury Wells. Ms Macdonald and her partner Chris Whitehead spent the past 10 months working on a scheme that would bring a new era of dining to the market town.

“Our vision is now a reality,” Ms Macdonald said. “Tenbury has lots of good pubs to eat in but had nothing like this and I’m really pleased with how it has turned out and the reaction so far.”

I had watched the restaurant taking shape for weeks, as builders transformed the former fruit and veg store into a classy venue worthy of any top city centre. So when it was finally completed on October 6 I was only too eager to try it out.

As my mother and I walked into the small, but cosy entrance lounge we were greeted by pleasant staff who poured us both a large glass of house red on request and brought over a plate of home-made canapes for us to enjoy while we sat on large leather sofas, mulling over the select menu.

Soaking up the atmosphere of the plush surroundings and gentle music it felt like I could have been in a five-star hotel lounge, in some cosmopolitan city far, far away - not in the place I had spent much of my youth trawling from pub to pub.

Having selected our dishes before long we were shown up the spiral staircase to a clean and crisp restaurant filled with around a dozen tables, each beautifully laid out.

I had opted for the open pastry tart of vine tomatoes and rocket pesto topped with parmesan shavings (£4.50) to start. It was an explosion of colours and flavours that delighted every tastebud. I was disappointed when it came to the last mouthful as I was enjoying it so much, but the anticipation of what my main course would be like in comparison eased the blow.

Mum chose the soup of the day with freshly made bread (£4.95), which, being National Apple Day the following day, was parsnip and apple. Sneaking a mouthful across the table, desperately trying not to drip it on the crisp white cloths, I was pleasantly surprised. Not being a fan of parsnip soup I expected not to like it, but the apple really gave it an extra sweet edge, and mum certainly devoured the lot.

For main course, though only five options on the menu, I felt spoilt for choice - it all sounded so good. I thought I would try something new and so chose the roast fillet of monkfish layered with red pepper and basil, wrapped in Parma ham with a balsamic reduction (£15.25).

The fish was full of flavours. Never having eaten monkfish before I was surprised by its meat-like texture and it was extremely tasty. The pepper and Parma ham complemented the monkfish beautifully and though full to bursting, I was reluctant to leave anything on my plate.

Again mum was dazzled by the select menu, finally deciding to go with the local saddle of venison served on a casserole of fine root vegetables with damson and juniper sauce (£15.95). The meat was incredibly tender and melted in the mouth. The damson and juniper sauce was also a welcome change from a typical red wine reduction. A thoroughly tasty and enjoyable dish.

Before going to Whites I had been warned by a friend that “you don’t get a lot” on your plate. However, I would have to disagree. The portions were perfectly ample, so much so that neither of us could even manage a pudding. It was disappointing as the cheese board was truly magnificent and I sat and watched another diner tucking into it, wishing I had left room.

Instead we rounded off what I can only describe as a wonderful and pleasant evening, with Irish coffees and petit fours.

If what Ms Macdonald and Mr Whitehead had wanted to create was a stylish, yet unpretentious wine bar and restaurant, with good home-cooked food, then they have certainly achieved their goal.

I was dazzled by the transformation of the building and by the exquisite menu, which I have since learned changes fortnightly.

“We don’t have a specials board,” Ms Macdonald says. “Because everything on the menu is special for those two weeks.”

Whites is a great place not only to eat, but to enjoy an afternoon coffee, an evening drink, and in the summer some al fresco dining. Certainly one to try out.

contact details

14 Market Street, Tenbury Wells

Phone number: 01584 811336

MENU SAMPLE

Starters

Chilled, layered gateau of Cornish crab & avocado with a mango and chilli salsa (£6.50)

Confit of duck leg served on a stir fry of pak choi with a sesame and honey glaze (£4.95).

Main courses

Local fillet steak on a bed of roasted cherry tomatoes, with a ragout of mushroom & shallot pie, chunky chips and red wine jus (£17.95).

Seasoned roast pumpkin combined with fresh herbs, encased in pasta and drizzled with butterbean foam (£11.50)

Desserts

Whites chocolate pot; lemon tart; bread and butter pudding (all £5.75)

ATMOSPHERE

Modern, welcoming and clean

SERVICE

Polite, efficient and helpful

DISABLED FACILITIES

Dining space available in the lounge on the ground floor, plus disabled toilets and access

SMOKING POLICY

No smoking throughout